Originally posted by Derk2000:
I'd use Magnecore wires, but any should do.

Use a step colder plug (NGK seems to be popular) with copper electrodes. Start the gap around .035 or so. The stock .054 will allow the spark to be "blown out.



I was thinking abotu megnecore wires, but at $114.00 i think they were i might have to stick with the ford racing wires. Otherwise it will be mid december by the time I get this done lol.

Originally posted by AtomicInternet:
Here are some tips I've learned from my supercharger that may help you:

You have the old-style jackshaft spline connector (connector between the shaft and the compressor). This version of the jackshaft has failed on every supercharger I've ever heard of. When you call vortech about the chip make sure you tell them you have the spline drive and want the upgraded pin drive. They are supposedly upgrading these for free. Do this before you go through the install hassle. Re-install is not fun.



I was told that mine had been replaced right before they started to offer the new upgraded ones. I guess it is mad of a harder metal and doesn't fail as soon. I am planning on upgrading but it will probably be inthe next 6 months.

Originally posted by AtomicInternet:
That blue cylinder is the Vortech FMU for return style fuel systems. It squeezes off the return line when you're under boost to shove more fuel into your injectors. I'm not sure what setup you have, but you'll need it unless you have a seperate fuel manager and/or bigger injectors. If you have returnless you'll need a stronger returnless in tank pump. The included inline pump only works on return systems. here is the latest installation manual in case you didn't get one.



I got the manual its jsut pretty dirty. Might print out a new one but probably not.

Originally posted by AtomicInternet:
As for oil, I have been running synthetic since I bought the car and the supercharger seems to like it. I get 5w-20 if I can find it, otherwise 5w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic. The line to the supercharger is very constrictive so you want to definately change your oil every 3,000 or sooner. I also check the oil drain line (runs from compressor to oil pan) after I've been driving for awhile to make sure hot oil is making it's way through the system (return line is hot if this is true).



My engine has been treated very nice from the previous owner. Kept detailed everythin. changed oil every 2500 miles almost on the dot. Kinda of nice to know exactly how my car got treated. I will be chaning to synthetic. a body of mine's dad has a reseller accoutn with Mobil 1. He buys it for himself and sells it to his friends for cheap. So I am picking that up tomorrow. I am also gonna do the sea foam trick before the install and oil change.

Originally posted by AtomicInternet:
The boost gauge is a good idea for anyone. You should typically run at 20 vaccuum when at idle, and get up to 8 boost when you're full out around 6200 RPM. If you don't run 20 vaccuum at idle there is a leak in your system somewhere.

I know I wound up writing a book here but hope it helps. I worried about my engine for a long time before I was comfortable with all the changes I made to it. here is a FAQ I update from time to time.

Good luck with your supercharger, I know I love mine. All the turbo guys will say "get a turbo" and they'll be right, but if you're short on cash it's a good bang for the buck.



I still need to get a B-Pillar setup that matches my car. I want the color to be exact without having to have it painted.

95 SES Sold 99 SE Sport Sold 99 SVT T-Red Tan Interior. K&N, Magnecors, 19' Theorys, And some audio stuff.