Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec Full 3.0

Shortblock is ordered and Bill informed me also that the oil pan has been superceeded by yet another one! BTW, if you are considering the 3.0 upgrade with a new shortblock, prices could go up (could go down?) this Friday. I was thinking the price of the shortblock was an error but I would think they would have caught that by now- anyways, I got mine for $532 + shipping. And so far I'm right about $2100 which includes:

shortblock
rebuilt 3.0 heads
oilpan (maybe new part number is pan with tube and stick so I didn't order them)
new shift forks
DMD/ bolt/ washer
head bolts
SPEC l clutch and flywheel.

Take away the clutch and it's $1400 without gaskets or fluids.

I'll post full itemization once complete (in a year or two!), but my calculation to complete is about $2800-$2900- which includes AZ dyno chip, valve springs, new alternator, waterpump, and starter (and gaskets/ fluids). Haven't decided on the MSDS headers yet as I live in CA but I'm considering them if I can have the ceramic coating black instead of white (white would be noticed easier by an inspector though they may not notice anway.

you can get the car tuned on the dyno localy, you should see a group buy on tuning and chips soon in the c.a. forum.

how much was shipping on your short block?

Haven't found out yet but Bill said he sent one to North Carolina for $85. That actually just dawned on me that I didn't find out for sure- I was using $50 in my calculations assuming it would be no more than that! Hope I don't get a shocker with a $150 shipping charge else it would probably would have been cheaper buying locally.

I'll look into the chip and programming- thanks!

I also forgot to add in the $200 for balacing and the price of Clevite or FM bearings.

When you get your block in, look it over really good. I had my local dealer get one for me and the first one was shipped Fedex. I was looking it over before I loaded it in my truck and found a nice crack in the oil pan area. The crack went right through the oil pan bolt hole. Looked like it had been dropped (ouch).

According to my local guys that part number is for a 2004 3.0L DOHC replacement shortblock. I didn't take any chances and ordered head gaskets from Ford too. I called Felpro and they had no listing that new.

Keep in mind that you need to fill some holes and cut some mounting ears off and a piece off the crank. I had to re-tap and hole for a sensor larger too.

Good Luck.

Marty
98 SVT 3.0L

I think the better thing to do would be a to find a used 3.0 and start with that. For close to the price of the new shortblock, you can have the 3.0 heads which flow better and have larger valves than the SVT.

Clean up the block, install new bearings, and the SVT Cams.

My plan for over the winter is to obtain an 02/03 3.0 and do the following:
- Home port/polish the 3.0 heads
- Mondeo valve springs
- Port the stock 3.0 intake
- Install new bearings, clean up crank.

I have the DMD, and will be purchasing MSDS Headers shortly. This will also give me a chance to perform all the engine / head work without any downtime to the car. Then, next Spring when all the parts are ready, I pull the 2.5, swap the SVT Cams into the 3.0 and drop it back in along with new clutch, LSD, shift forks.

Later

I completely agree.
Buying a used 3L is a far better idea then spending the same money or more on just a short block.

3L heads, 3L valves, extra oil drains, upgraded pan, pickup, windage tray, front cover, spares of every sensor, et cetera...


Also it's not like you don't need to buy all the gaskets and at least the rod bolts either way.

I actually don't mind spending a few hundred extra for piece of mind myself. I'll know where my engine has been! Meaning I can be certain it hasn't been abused in any way (like overheated, raced like s**t, been in a high impact collision, etc) Something may look pretty, but stress is stress on a system, and even if you can't see it or measure it, it is still there and contributes to the expected longevity of that system. New vs used is a different story if you just happen to know the story, like it was your mothers (assuming she drives well!) Bottom line is, a few hundred to raise the probability that I won't be overhauling my engine in another 50K miles in my eyes is well worth it. Probably just me, but damn I hate that feeling driving down the road, all of a sudden hearing a new noise, and wondering "crap, am I gonna be wrenching this thing again?" or even "damn thing better make it home!"

I did give it some thought though with the prospect of having the spare parts, but I'm already a terrible pack rat!

The piece of mind thing should basically be out the window now with the 3.0L's and all of the controversy surrounding it. There have been theory's behind the spun bearing forever now. Is it crank walk, is it the oil galleries, is it the Casting Process. I'd rather "chance it" if you will, on a low mileage salvage yard motor(which I did) than to spend even more on just a short block, to have the same thing possibly happen. But to each his own.

Mark

Guess maybe it's my experience that preculudes my caution. The experience of totalling my '65 Mustang with beautiful balanced and blueprinted '289 when I ran it into a telephone pole doing about 50 back in '74. Threw the engine (which at that time must have had no more than 20K on it) and trans into into a cheap '63 Falcon (now THAT was a sleeper!) and damn that thing ran nice- for awhile. Maybe it's all just pure coincidence, but I only got maybe 10K more miles on it before that thing started it's quick downward spiral. No problem (EASY) working on that though and I wouldn't give it a second thought now going with used on something like that. Over the years I've also had acquaintances who have picked up 'low mileage used' from junkyards who within a year or so encountered problems with things like rods, pistons, cams and even cranks cracking or breakingbreaking. Mind you, for each one of those guys there are probably a dozen or more that I know that have had no problem whatsoever. And the stuff back then (with respect to engines and quality control) certainly isn't as good of quality as the things produced today. I suspect I would have no problem doing as you did and going the used route- just don't want to chance it!