Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance ASP, URD, SHO out of the way heres FISHER PULLEY!!! must read...

Scott you did sort of introduce the "no damper" comment. But anyway, I am still trying to learn if the FISHER will actually be a better damper (and perhaps reduce the crank whip) or will it be only as good. In addition to possibly better protection, and a gain of about 5HP/5 lb/ft (without increased engine noise etc) you will underdrive the A/C, Alternator, and P/S pumps. This is important with increased redlines in particular and should prolong the life of all 3 if you like to rev the engine, even with stock redline. May even make the device cost effective if you keep the car.

So, I would really like to see a safe UDP that does all the above. I hope the FISHER is it.

25k miles on my SHO Shop pulleys.

John

I'm not an engineer, so any of you who are feel free to correct me.

From all that I have read and studied in these forums, running any crank pulley that isn't damped might, over the long haul, cause problems with your engine. Based on this knowledge, and based on my choice of taking a cautious approach to my mod program, I will never put a UDP on my car unless the UDP addresses the issue of harmonics. No other pulley does this, to my knowledge.

Even if the Fisher unit incorporated a damper that was no better than stock, qualitatively, I think it would be worth a few extra bucks for the extra protection and peace of mind it would provide. Unfortunately, my cautious approach also means there's no way in hell I'd be the first guy to get one of these and slap it on. I'll leave the "test program" to more adventurous souls. (Besides, I'm broke.)

Better damping (most likely?), higher acceptable rpm limit (not a rubber based damper!), SFI approved, considerably lighter (think lightened flywheel with $600 less labor! 2lb's can do alot! ), and atleast 20% less parasitic drag on the motor from the accessories...

...and ScottK. You are not running a damper; like Dan mentioned. Since the UR is just a UD Pulley (No Damper!) This is why it's so ultra light...

On weight...
A decent guestimate on weight would be ~1.5lbs. The stock one is ~3.5lbs.

Okay, here goes.

"The fisher damper comes from the world of domestic circle track, and drag racing where they are very effective in damping vibrations from these engines. In the motorcycle world, Fisher dampers are known for their ability to damp out the vibrations of Harley Davidsons-machines that ar designed to vibrate."

"It has an inertia ring that is free to rotate inside a CNC-machined alloy housing that replaces the stock main pulley/balancer assembly. The inertia ring has complete freedom to rotate; it is not coupled to the crank by a bonded rubber sleeve. The ring is in two pieces with springs in between. The ring engages clutches using a special friction material thatis bonded to the inside of the aluminum housing.

Because of the inertia rings' freedom of movement, the Fisher damper is sensitive to the amplitude of the crank vibration instead of being tuned for a certain frequency like a stock rubber bonded damper. The worse the vibration, the more the damper helps attenuate it."

Gotta go for a few, but there is more.

I am seriously sick of all this sh!t. I have posted numbers, rpm limits, every bit of info that someone would need (if they could understand it). I work at a company that produces the TVD for the car we love so much. I collect the data that is used to produce the tuning set that Ford uses to determine what freq they want to kill. Use whatever TVD you want to use. It is your car and you seem to know more about the auto industry than I do. This board is being consumed by know-it-all's......peace.
p.s. turn off that long assed sig.

Terry I have told that so many times and took so much time to post all the critical data from the 2.5L test that we did. It is so not worht my time. He knows everything he needs to know, so let him do whatever he wants.
But to make one more thing clear: you might be building something into your engine and think it will run. I can guarantee that when THMotorsports is done with mine, I will hand you your ass. I will not even be running an underdriven TVD of any sort.

Oh really? Hey buddy, dont think your crap dont stink like everyone elses, you may be an engineer but that gives you no right to go bashing the ideas of others. If your anger is from my post, you need to think a bit, heck it would surprise any of us if the Ford damper (read:any ford part) was better than a race proven piece. I dont doubt the skills of THMotorsports or Terry himself, but it seems you guys have a "if i dont know it, no one does" type attitude. Let THmotorsports build you a car, and when my motor is finished, Ill show you what can come from someone thinking outside of the "Ford Engineering" box that you guys are sunk in.

I sympathize with Judge on this one, if you don't want to listen to him fine...but remember he deals with the engine harmonics as his JOB. This means that he does this every day and probably gets a pretty penny for it too. If that does not make him an expert at this subject I am really not sure what else would .

But like Judge said, you guys know better from the "extensive" testing you have done, so obviously you are the expert in this matter. If you don't want to listen to who most consider to be an expert don't, but don't go running around and discrediting his work.

On the matter of engine harmonics for our engine, if Judge doesn't know it then no one here knows it.

Geez. I hope I didn't send you over the edge with my last post. I'm not intending to "school the teacher" as it were. My aim was to maybe shed a little more light on the particular part in question [the Fisher] since a few people seem a little in the dark on it still. Sorry if I've beat a dead horse here Judge.

Now, if you're not too sore at me, maybe you could help me understand something a little better?

If for instance I were to build a 3L. Let's assume the stock damper is doing a excellent job of cancelling harmonic vibrations. If I invested in new forged pistons,new wrist pins, and forged rods, would the stock damper still be "tuned" properly with the changes to reciprocating part densities, and overall weights? What about if I changed a rotational piece, such as lighter flywheel?

I'm sorry if this is all redundant to you, but I'm trying to understand if the undesireable frequencies are more a function of inherent weights, or more of dimentions. ie. The cranks overall length, and length of it's throws, counter weights. Rod center to center length etc.