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Joined: Jun 2003
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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the JB weld is used to fill the center mounted injector spot on oval port heads, with the split port LIM you have the injectors mounted in in the primary intake valve, but like i said before you could just get 99 3L heads that are split port instead and not have to worry about the porting(dont know the downsides thou)
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621
Redneck Troll
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Redneck Troll
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621 |
Originally posted by 99fordsvt:
I don't think Clevite 77 bearings are much benefit or necessary, but I will probably get flamed for that. However, I guess that putting new bearings (OEM or Clevite) in a used short block makes sense because most sand in the oil passages would probably be gone by now, so set #2 could expect nice clean oil.
Federal Mogul and Clevite replacement bearings are both better than the stock tin coated copper bearings.
BTW, the sand in the oil passages never makes it out of the passages to be "gone", but at least you could check to see if any had come loose and is stuck in the oil paths perhaps...
http://www.bnmotorsports.com
"And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 117
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CEG\'er
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Posts: 117 |
Why do you think the Clevite's are better?
The real key is maintaining an effective oil film so that the surfaces never actually touch. Tin is nice and soft so if some contact occurs on start up or high pressure, scuff is less prone to occur.
With the proper oil pan and oil level (prevent aeration), the OEM bearings should be sufficient for all but the most extreme application.
Loose sand that is smaller than the downstream passages WILL transport with the oil to the bearings, so the next set can expect far less sand.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by 99SVT666:
1. 2001+ low mileage (30k or less) 3.0L Duratec
2. Clevite 77 rod bearings
3. Clevite 77 main bearings
4. OEM cam bearings (necessary if low mileage?)
5. Spec stage 2 clutch kit
6. Upgraded shifter forks
7. OEM or Fel-Pro Head Bolts
8. 160 Degree thermostat
9. new fluids all over the place
10. Gaskets (I know Fel-Pro sells several kits. Which one(s) should I buy and what gaskets actually need to be changed when doing the swap?)
Two main questions:
11. First, are there any other torque to yield studs or bolts in the 3L motor besides the head bolts?
12. Also, I know that having a custom chip burned for the new motor is essential to extract the most performance out of it, but I am unclear of exactly how this works.
13. Is an APEXi SAFC necessary to dyno tune the motor or can you just have a custom, but non adjustable chip burned while on the dyno?
14. I'm also curious as to how much the entire "chipping" process usually costs. I figured it would be $300-$400, please let me know how close I am.
1. Fine, make sure you spin the engine over with well lubed cylinder walls to lubricate the rings
2. A must
3. Nice but not a must
4. There are no cam bearings
5. Stay away from Kevlar! Get a Stage 1
6. Good idea - Where's the LSD on your list??? THAT IS A MUST!!!
7. Fel-Pro are cheaper
8. Okay if you get a chip tuned for it
9. Dino for 500 miles (engine & tranny)
10. Fel-Pro is preferred. A MUST for exhaust gaskets.
~Where is the 3M4Z oil pan?
11. Rod bolts, Main studs & bolts. VERY biggies...
12. It changes the PCM parameter. A must for any car much less one that changes the setup so drastically.
13. You can go to a dyno that can burn a chip for our car. However the shops with tuning experience on our car are beyond limited. Your best bet is both a custom chip and the S-AFC to tune at a local dyno.
A chip IS A MUST though or you are wasting your time & money.
14. Chip is normally $300-400 plus dyno time. I would say the lower if you only get a set program from ADC and then tune via S-AFC at a local dyno. Outside of ADC there is no such thing as a preset chip that is worth a damn. So if you do not have a local dyno that can also tune our platform well don't bother getting a chip anywhere else.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 65
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OP
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Demon, thanks for your help, I was hoping you would respond and I'm glad you did. To be honest, I've kind of given up on most of the 3L research and when it comes to looking something up, getting advice, etc. I just go to your website, it's the best compilation of useful information on Contour.org.
Alright, now that my praise is done I've still got a few questions:
1 Does using the SAFC and the custom chip mean that I'd have to do two dyno sessions?
2 Is there a good Contour tuner in the Chicagoland area?
3 Why all the hate against Kevlar? I know its got a lower coefficient of friction, but it stands up to heat a lot better and will wear longer (better for slip clutch launches), not bad attributes for a car thats known for spilling its guts on hard lanuches.
4 Just how necessary is the Quaife, cuase I really don't want to spend another 600 dollars.
5 Lastly, are there any specific kits from Felpro that I should buy, or do I need to order everything individually? I was thinking I might only need a 2.5 conversion kit and two head kits. let me know if Im wrong.
Thanks so much for your help everybody, I know that time isn't free, and I appreciate your efforts to help me out here.
BTW, the reason I dont want Pre 2001 3L heads is because they eliminate the advantage of the oval port heads better flow characteristics.
"Redline is just a suggestion... Sometimes isa necessary to missa use the car..." -Enzo Ferrari
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Originally posted by 99SVT666:
1 Does using the SAFC and the custom chip mean that I'd have to do two dyno sessions?
2 Is there a good Contour tuner in the Chicagoland area?
3 Why all the hate against Kevlar? I know its got a lower coefficient of friction, but it stands up to heat a lot better and will wear longer (better for slip clutch launches), not bad attributes for a car thats known for spilling its guts on hard lanuches.
4 Just how necessary is the Quaife, cuase I really don't want to spend another 600 dollars.
5 Lastly, are there any specific kits from Felpro that I should buy, or do I need to order everything individually? I was thinking I might only need a 2.5 conversion kit and two head kits. let me know if Im wrong.
6. BTW, the reason I dont want Pre 2001 3L heads is because they eliminate the advantage of the oval port heads better flow characteristics.
1. No only the S-AFC tuning has to be done on the dyno.
2. Don't know but with a preset chip any tuner can tune with the S-AFC.
3. Low coefficient of friction. Glazes if it get wet. It's not worth it verses a Stage 1.
4. It is so much a must when you have everything apart it's considered a MUST because you MUST change out the stock glass diff. A MUST!
BTW the Torsen is a good choice as well... 
However either one is a MUST if you MUST know.
5. That all depends on the mileage of your 3L. I reused several of the rubber gaskets off my 3L.
If you get the 3M4Z oil pan kit it comes with a gasket. (A smart buy for your new engine!)
Must have gaskets are head gaskets & exhaust gaskets.
You will need a TB & EGR gasket. (reusing them is difficult if not impossible)
New VC gaskets are smart. The 3L ones don't fit btw.
6. Good idea...
Oh yeah. If you don't get an Escape/Tribute engine you will need the YL8Z oil pickup. ($15)
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 344
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CEG\'er
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Posts: 344 |
Originally posted by bnoon:
Federal Mogul and Clevite replacement bearings are both better than the stock tin coated copper bearings.
Brad, the O.E. bearings used in the Duratec are not tin-coated copper. They are made by Federal Mogul and have a steel back with an aluminum alloy coating.
You can find good info on Federal Mogul's site here. . The O.E. bearings would fall under the "Aluminum Alloy (RA or A)" section. Practically all of the main and rod bearings used at Ford are of this construction.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 65
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OP
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Do you need an aftermarket chip to dyno tune via SAFC?
"Redline is just a suggestion... Sometimes isa necessary to missa use the car..." -Enzo Ferrari
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 65
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I did some research and think I'd like to use the stock SVT oil pan with the YL8E windage tray and pick up. Are there any compatability issues here? Also, what studs and bolts do I need for this oiling set up? From Demon's website I gathered that the 2001+ "main set" is what I need. Is this "set" the same as the bolts and studs that correspond with the following part numbers? Small Bolt F5RZ 6345 C Big Bolt F5RZ 6345 D Big Stud YL8Z-6345 AA Small Stud YL8Z 6345 BA Lastly, can I reuse my oil pan gasket if I am reusing the stock SVT oil pan? I'm not trying to be cheap here, I'm just trying to avoid buying parts that won't make any noticable difference in performance or reliability when standing up to the abuse of a highly spirited 18 year old driver. 
"Redline is just a suggestion... Sometimes isa necessary to missa use the car..." -Enzo Ferrari
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 344
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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Posts: 344 |
99SVT666,
Your plan should work ok. You'll get the windage tray improvements but you will be missing out on the baffling updates. I would advise getting a new oil pan gasket. Assuming you have a 99SVT, yours is 5 years old.
The bolts you have listed look right. The old windage tray was held down with 6mm nuts. The new tray with new studs also requires four 8mm nuts. PN is W701582-S309.
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