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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015 |
Originally posted by 96_98_SE:
Well, as long as I'm already prepared to remove the cylinder head, I suppose attempting to install a helicoil myself wouldn't hurt anything. If it didn't take, I could still proceed with removing the head and have a machine shop fix it permanently. 
THAT'S SMART THINKING! 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Yes that's an okay idea to try it while installed. The metal shavings would have me worried though. Also I strongly concur that engine R&R is MUCH easier then trying to remove the heads on the car. Not only is removing the rear head "near" impossible the subsequent timing and phasing of the cams apon install shall be real fun. 
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,887
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,887 |
cover the helicoil tap with grease. It'll catch almost if not all the metal shavings.
06 GMC Sierra 2500HD Dmax/ally
06 Pontiac G6 GT
05 CRF250R
FOR SALE 06 KX65 with riding gear $2700 obo
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 423
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 423 |
I've used my wife's vacuum cleaner (please don't tell her) with a small diameter hose duct taped to the end of the attachment nozzle to suck up loose dirt or whatever out of the engine. I would imagine it would work pretty good for metal shavings down a spark plug hole, too.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 937
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 937 |
Many years ago I stripped the plug threads in a 94 Crown Vic 4.6L engine (destroyed them removing a frozen plug). Bought helicoil kit designed specifically for Ford spark plug hole repair at CarQuest. This is a common problem with these engines. Cost was minimal, about $30. Used thick grease on the ream and on the tap according to directions and vacuumed out cylinder through hole afterwards. No serious access issues with these engines. Repair seemed to work OK. I Drove the car for a few months before selling it.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 123
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 123 |
It took a bit of research, as well as creating a couple tools, but it worked!
INGREDIENTS:
1. Welded 10-inch ratchet extension to tail end of "Sav-A-Thread" cutting tip
2. Modified 5-feet of clear plastic tubing to operate with a Shop Vacuum
PREPARATION:
1. Cut new threads into (rear; firewall) head using elongated cutting tool
2. Vacuumed out combustion chamber for 10 minutes (twisting plastic hose around continually until no additional "aluminum confetti" was seen).
3. Put anti-seize compound on new Double-Platinum spark plug (gapped appropriately, of course)
4. Put "Sav-A-Thread" steel thread insert onto spark plug
5. Put a tiny amount of JB Weld onto top threads of steel insert
6. Installed spark plug+insert into cylinder head
7. Torque to specified Inch-Pound setting
8. Let sit 24 hours (for JB Weld to completely cure)
9. Serves 5 seatbelted occupants.
10. Enjoy!
COST:
$30 = Sav-a-Thread Kit (Thread Cutter + inserts)
$10 = 10-inch extension
$5 = JB Weld
$1 = Plastic Hose for Vacuuming
$0 = Welding at Local Exhaust Shop (thanks guys!)
Priceless = Fixing stripped threads on the firewall-side cylinder head without removing the head
Pictures available upon request. Thanks for the encouragement and ideas!
1996 Ford Contour SE (Mine): V-6 MTX/DMD/MSDS/K&N3530/Torsen/Spec-1/Split-Exhaust/Walbro/Syncromax..119K
2003 GMC Yukon XL SLT (Hers): 285HP/Stock..93K
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