Originally posted by TomV:

1). Does 1/16" Toe-out, -0.25 deg Camber and whatever max "positive" Caster happens to fall at sound ok, for the front?

2). Since the weight is supposed to be off the suspension for the C/C kit adjustment, how do you get the car to settle back to normal ride height without pulling it off the rack and driving it around?

Thanks!



Those specs will work, but I prefer more camber and you should have no problem with tire wear provided everything is in shape and proper maintence, i.e. checking tire pressure 1-2 times a week and keeping up on rotations, provided you don't have directional tires. Which if you do I don't recommend rotating with a fwd vehicle, usualy causes problems down the road.

Originally posted by Big Jim:
1. Those readings should be fine.

2. They should be able to lift the corner they are adjusting while still on the alignment rack. They will need to estimate how much to adjust, make the adjustment, then lower that corner and check the readings. There is no need to get the springs to settle between lifting and adjusting.



Yes any modern alignment machine has a specfic "jacking" procedure for lifting the car during alignment and making necessary adjustment. When the car is lowered, realy the best way is to let the springs settle by driving but is realy not needed(read below).

Originally posted by Big Jim:

Some alignment techs would bounce the car up and down on the rack before making the final readings, but I've been taught that it isn't necessary.



Jouncing the car after lifting the vehicle is a Must , as well as when first begining alignment and/or making height measurements for adjusting, i.e. adjustable coilovers/torsion bars. The cars suspension must always be settled and at proper ride height before ajusting/measuring(with exception of the jacking procedure explained above).

'99 Silver svt For sale 19" Axis Neo wheels 3.0 parts, pre-98 trunk, Check classifieds bp.powell@comcast.net