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First off, thanks guys for all the great information on the 3.0L conversion. I wouldn't even be thinking about this if it wasn't for the excellent part number information.

I am starting with a 98 SVT that has what I believe to be a very loud rod knock. I would like to make this conversion as simple and cost effective as possible.
I plan on using the 4F1Z-6009-BA short block that I can get from my local Ford dealer for $709.58. I noticed the great list of gaskets in the other post, but other than those, what parts would you expect I will need to complete the conversion. ( besides the expected plugs, wires, new clutch etc. )
I would like to re-use as much of the 2.5L parts as possible as it only had 60K on the engine.



Thanks again in advance!
Marty

P.S. I would consider selling the car in the state it is in, PM if you are interested.

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Your new shortblock will come with the updated windage tray and oil pump already installed.

You can use the heads and timing components and everything else from your 2.5L. In fact, you'll want to use the timing components from the 2.5L so the chains will align properly with the cam sprockets.

Get a head gasket set for the 2.5L, and a valve cover gasket, and exhuast manifold gaskets.

Everything else comes over from your SVT engine.

Don't forget oil, coolant, tranny fluid, and miscelaneious lubricants and cleaners that will be handy.

I highly recommend a new clutch and throw-out bearing if your clutch has any kind of wear on it. This is the only time it will be easy to change those items.

Do read the FAQ on a hybrid installation. There are some minor modifications you need to do to your shortblock. The fastcougar.com forums have a great how-to with pics. It's not hard, I mean if I could do it, anyone can

Be sure to check will Bill Jenkins on that same shortblock price. He will probably no doubt be cheaper unless you have a special connection at your dealer.

I don't think I"m missing anything, but I might, anyone else think of soemthing I missed?

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Should also have a new or rebuild alternator in there as it's a PITA to work on while it's in the car. And what you think it's going to cost double it.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
Get a head gasket set for the 2.5L, and a valve cover gasket, and exhuast manifold gaskets.





IMPORTANT: Make sure and use 3.0L headgaskets. Otherwise your 89mm 3L pistons will hit the 2.5L headgasket at TDC - very ugly.

Glad to hear a new shortblock is again available at reasonable cost. When I converted mine about a year ago, for some reason it was about $1300, so I went with a $500 17K salvage engine.


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Originally posted by 99fordsvt:
Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
Get a head gasket set for the 2.5L, and a valve cover gasket, and exhuast manifold gaskets.





IMPORTANT: Make sure and use 3.0L headgaskets.




Your right! Shoot! /slap me

I forgot that I did indeed get the 3L head gaskets. Read the FAQ to be sure, don't trust what I tell you

If you're using your SVT heads then get the 2.5L valve cover and exhuast gaskets though.

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Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
In fact, you'll want to use the timing components from the 2.5L so the chains will align properly with the cam sprockets.






I would buy new timing chains as well.


Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
In fact, you'll want to use the timing components from the 2.5L so the chains will align properly with the cam sprockets.






I would buy new timing chains as well.




BAH! Check them out first.. Didn't you say you have 40k miles?

Or just buy new ones and keep the little peace of mind that you can after knowing all that we know about these 3.0Ls.

Mark


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Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
1. Get a head gasket set for the 2.5L, and a valve cover gasket, and exhuast manifold gaskets.

Everything else comes over from your SVT engine.

2. Don't forget oil, coolant, tranny fluid, and miscelaneious lubricants and cleaners that will be handy.

3. I highly recommend a new clutch and throw-out bearing if your clutch has any kind of wear on it. This is the only time it will be easy to change those items.




1. DO NOT get a head gasket set for a 2.5L and it's smaller cylinder bores!

Also do not use the OEM exhaust manifold gaskets if you plan to port your heads. They are tiny! Use Fel-Pro

The 3M4Z oil pan kit comes with a gasket.
The short block should be put together already so you can either piece meal the other gaskets you'll need or buy a 3L head set.
Depending on what's all included in the shortblock kit it may be a lot cheaper to just buy the gaskets you "need" to replace.
Most are re-usable.

2. Dino oil for ring seating. Save the synth for later.

3. I whole-hearted agree. LSD time as well!


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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what about new head bolts, aren't those TTY??


98.5 Black SE ATX S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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Originally posted by gearhead98:
what about new head bolts, aren't those TTY??



Yes they are.

To be honest he should already know what he needs for a swap before he starts it.

All this information is readily available.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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