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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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he coulda been nice and ended his post with a  ..somehow thats really good at smoothing over all harsh comments. ~darp~
Originally posted by PÃ?â?¢WDÃ?â?°Ã?®CÃ?Ë?Ã?Æ?TMÃ?â?¬N:
I can do anything if i can find that powder .
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Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
The blueing is normal. Don't freak out. 
Which bearing did it spin BTW???
Do they blue the cranks from the factory? Kinda strange if you ask me 
the rod bearing was the far end rod on the clutch/flywheel side. If that helps you any. If you would like I can send you a few pics of what remains of the bearings 
06 GMC Sierra 2500HD Dmax/ally
06 Pontiac G6 GT
05 CRF250R
FOR SALE 06 KX65 with riding gear $2700 obo
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CEG'er
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CEG'er
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For those that are interested....
Posted by 93nighthawk
Slap me if this is old news, but this fixes what problem, exactly? =engine from blowing up when you are taking hard right turns and loose oil pressure due to design. Very common 2.5L duratech design flaw.
Posted by Terry Haines
...BUT if it were oil starvation that caused spun bearings 'due to design' then an engine would have it 'from new'....This is a progressive thing...most engines spin rod ends between 65-85,000 miles...if it had 'bad lube'/bad pan/oil retained in heads etc etc it would have been like that FROM NEW!....It is not my opinion that the spun bearings are caused by lube at all....Using all the pan/pickup/dipstick & tube/windage baffle 'as is' on a 3.0 converion is the best way to go.....but again the oil issue would be there 'from new'.....
__________________
'Your engine builder knows more about how to use HIS engine than you
Regards,
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Joined: Nov 2000
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Learned patience the hard way
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Learned patience the hard way
Joined: Nov 2000
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The problem with that statement by Terry is that it has partially been voided by new relevations from within Ford. Basically there is an issue with material being left in the oil passages during the casting process and eventually migrating through the motor and that is more than likely the main cause of the spun bearings. There is still valid speculation that other causes are oiling issues and rod issues. Now on to the Demon issue. Of course he's rude as hell, he wouldn't have it any other way, so I wouldn't expect anything else from him But in his defense I don't think any of your assertations stated above are correct. The SVT and standard 2.5 are essentially the same engine with the only changes comeing from a different piston to bump the compressions slightly and better breathing characteristics. If there is any correlation with them failing earlier than most standard 2.5's the better place to look first would be driving styles causing excessive wear, not poor component design. On the issue of the oil pump, you go straight from saying oil pump cavitation to being rod failure so you leave a very mixed message on what you're trying to say is the real problem. I agree the oil pump could suck air and cavitate but it's most likely due to lack of oil in the pan to properly cover the pickup. On the final point, the rods are identical in the 3L and 2.5L so that's an invalid statement. Does that clear it up in a more nicely put fashion? Thanks, Rick
Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
Buckshot77@msn.com
Misc 3L parts for sale
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Originally posted by btrautman:
Posted by Terry Haines
...BUT if it were oil starvation that caused spun bearings 'due to design' then an engine would have it 'from new'....This is a progressive thing...most engines spin rod ends between 65-85,000 miles...if it had 'bad lube'/bad pan/oil retained in heads etc etc it would have been like that FROM NEW!....It is not my opinion that the spun bearings are caused by lube at all....Using all the pan/pickup/dipstick & tube/windage baffle 'as is' on a 3.0 converion is the best way to go.....but again the oil issue would be there 'from new'.....
If it were a foreign object problem it would be main bearings failing, Not rod bearings. Even if it were to be a rod bearing it would be #1 or possibly #2.
However the most common failure BY FAR is a rod bearing and it's #6. The first to lose lubrication when oil pressure drops.
My 2.5L engine had NO sand material in it and the typical signs of lubrication failure at Rod Bearing #6.
Most pictures I have collected show these exact same symptoms of oil starvation.
All the information I collected from the several race teams stated it was lubrication failure as well. Hence why the Accusump cured their problems. 
Now I'm not saying there might be a chance for Zircon contamination in a select time frame on a small percentage of possible blocks but the MAIN issue for the 2.5L is an oiling issue. 'nuff said
...and sorry for being so rude Bob.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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DevonSVT,
Apology Accepted!
I didn't realize this was such a energetic Topic!
A couple of questions, are torque to yield main and rod bolts so much cheaper than standard reusable bolts in this area? Also to me when I was examining my rods, it looks like the endcaps were actually "broke" off. Is this supposed to be a superior method of manufacturing rods vs machined endcaps, etc?
It is my understanding the 3.0 engines don't experience this type of rod failure. What could account for this difference?
I have another 2.5L that I'm going to rebuild. I will need to purchase oversized pistons. I am not looking for high performance pistons/rods just something to replace my stock units...who do you all recommend that is reasonable in price?
Regards,
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 52
CEG\'er
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Since there seems to be a market for this ;-) I have a 98 SVT crank & rods available. pm or e-mail me if interested. Haven't been removed yet, but if you are interested, I will remove & inspect. Ad in classifieds. Sorry for the crosspost.
Andrew
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 496
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2002
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Originally posted by btrautman:
... Also to me when I was examining my rods, it looks like the endcaps were actually "broke" off. Is this supposed to be a superior method of manufacturing rods vs machined endcaps, etc
The sinter forged rods are put through a process called "fracture-spliting".
Not sure if it is a "superior method", with the amount of spun bearings out there, but on paper seems to be a good process.
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Originally posted by eepals:
The sinter forged rods are put through a process called "fracture-spliting".
Not sure if it is a "superior method", with the amount of spun bearings out there, but on paper seems to be a good process.
Many cars have sinter forged rods. Actually it provides for a more stable grain pattern then standard forging.
Two cars that come to mind in particular and support a ton of power in stock form are the LS1 and the 2.4L in the SRT-4
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by btrautman:
1. It is my understanding the 3.0 engines don't experience this type of rod failure. What could account for this difference?
2. I have another 2.5L that I'm going to rebuild. I will need to purchase oversized pistons.
1. The 3L has 3 extra oil drains the 2.5L does not have. 1 in each head and a cross flow drain. 
2. Sealed Power makes the revised style hypereutectic pistons in several oversizes. Rock Auto or Autogiant sells them for around $25 each.
You could even pop in some SVT spec pistons (if you have a stock engine) and reap a little CR bonus on top of the one you'll already get from boring the cylinders.  
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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