Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction big problems....

If you feel that the hardwired/soldered in S-AFC is the "culprit" then get your hands dirty, and remove it....I bet the car will still run in it's current condition.

Feel free to prove me and everyone else on the forum who has tried to help wrong......

Actually, it's running like it did before everything f-ed up. We managed to overlook the S-AFC and the fact that it was not giving an airflow reading. It's fixed now. And it had nothing to do with alarm or turbo timer I had put in. And I have never intentionally tried to spin the the drag radials. Yeah, they're sticky, but don't do to well with everyday driving. As far as my pisspoor attitude goes, well, that's just me, I hate it when people start bad mouthing other peoples work because they weren't there to supervise or criticize every movement an installer makes. Granted, he could of spliced those wires under the hood differently, but he didn't, so oh well. Regardless, that was not the problem.

I'm really not trying to burn bridges here. It's just unbelievable how quick everyone is to blame a problem on someone elses work. And yes, a lot of you have tried to help, but in the process have be dragging the guy who did the install for the alarm and turbo timer's name through the mud. I've tried to keep my cool the best i can through all of this. Y'all can hate me, look down on me, w/e you want. At this point, it doesn't matter. My mom actually fixed my car. She's the one that got it running correctly again. This is a lady who knows very little about cars in general, and even less about performance parts, yet drives a Mercury Marauder. Although this forum is one of the most informational forums I have ever seen, it also seems to be the one with the most attitude (myself included). Thanks for the help, really.

Robert. I have known Alan close to 4 years now. He has treated that car like it is his baby since the day he got it. That car ran absolutely perfect since the turbo was put on and then you buy it and have a turbo timer and new alarm put on then you start experiencing problems.

There is a reason why people are blaming the person that put on the alarm or turbo timer....it's because the wiring was not done properly.

You should never, ever, ever splice into any wires inside the engine bay. The engine bay is not waterproof. It experiences extreme heat and humidity all the time along with lots and lots of direct contact from water due to all the rain that we have down here. Why would it take a week to have problems? Maybe because it just took that long for vibration and/or humidity to take their toll.

I replaced ALL of my underhood wiring on my car. I can tell you from experience that if there is the slightest bit of exposed wiring inside that engine bay that you WILL experience problems. Those 3M splices or whatever those are on the coil pack are probably the problem. It could be that or the splice off the white w/ blue stripe wire off the main engine harness...or the exposed wire on the IAC.

Whomever did the wiring work....whether it was you or some 'professional' shop did NOT KNOW what they were doing. Why would you splice into the coil pack????? Why???

Another thing....why did you replace the factory alarm? The alarms in these cars disable the starter. If somebody bypasses the alarm somehow the car still won't start because the ignition key itself has an electronic security feature. Honestly, you're lucky the new alarm didn't somehow screw all this up.

The point that I and everyone else is trying to make is....somebody screwed up the car since YOU'VE had it. Take it back to whomever worked on it and have them fix it. Troubleshooting electrical issues in your car will be impossible until you fix the wiring under the hood. Fix all those and make them waterproof and then see if the car runs well.

I have a fuel charge harness if you need one to replace the one that looks ruined on your car. PM me if you want to buy it.

You can go to this link underhood wiring harness recall to see just how complicated this sort of issue is to fix.

It really sucks to see one of the cleanest, fastest cars on the forum go to s$^&^ within a month or two of it trading hands. It's a very rare car and IMO from what I have heard, has not gone to the best home.

17 year old + perfect car= not perfect car for long hate to say that i saw this one comin

You now...I remember what it was like to be 17...don't thrash the guy b/c he drives the car hard...he bought it, he can do whatever...not taking advice is another thing though.

I was helping because it was Alan's old car and I'm a friend of Chris. (Both who you probably inaccurately blamed!)

I guess I'll remember that it's not anymore.


I still say the "other" wiring is the culprit for this problem/problems.
I wouldn't think it's gone and wouldn't expect it to stay that way if you haven't fixed the piss poor job done by your friend/installer.


'nuff said

What I am baffelled by is why you need to tap ANYTHING of the coil for the Turbo Timer!

I never had to touch it!

Must be some POS Turbo Timer that needs that kind of "input"