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#1026282 08/12/04 05:37 AM
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I'm trying to track down my vibration problem, so i decided to try a DMD instead of a stock replacement. I need this asap, because my car is still in the shop. Does anyone have one for sale or know a site that has them instock? I have tried a few but they are not retuning phone calls and e-mails.


99 SVT Contour under 43k miles - For sale!!! pm for info. 89 Taurus SHO 90k miles next....STI swaped Impreza
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Have you tried your local Ford dealer? That's where I got mine. I went one afternoon, and they had one for me by the next morning at 8am. Seems pretty quick.

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SPmotorsports.com
but I know he is in the middle of moving so I am not sure how fast you can reach him.

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99TourSVT, you may want to reconsider switching to the DMD if you are trying to fix the problem.

I don't believe the OEM part is prone to failure so you would at best be making no difference or possibly only masking the problem and making it more difficult to diagnose.

Proper troubleshooting protocol dictates that you only address trial changes of parts that:
a) Were on the vehicle when it was working properly and,
b) Have a remote possibility of being the source of the problem.

The DMD doesn't really fit either of these two criteria.

If, as you mentioned, you are wanting to fix the problem then this won't help, it will only complicate the issue. If however, you are wanting to mask or ignore the problem it might help, if the problem is vibration at higher revs.

Just read your related posting on your vibration. I don't think the DMD will help as it's primary purpose IIFC is to provide additional vibration damping at elevated revs compared to the stock unit. You indicated that your vibration is at low revs.

You said that there is a small vibration at idle in neutral.

Does the vibration differ if:
- clutch pedal is in or out?
- trans is in gear or neutral?

Regards, Alan


03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD 98 Mystique 2.5 MTX 99 SVT - Inheriting Lil Monster's parts 98 SVT - Lil Monster (RIP) 183.7 whp Quaife/Fidanza/UR UD Clutch AFE/MSDS/SHO-Y/Bassani/MagnaCore GC/Koni/22mmR/EndLinks/ES/ KVR Slotted/1144's/SS Lines/MASItaly
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The main reason im willing the get this part is, I always wanted it, and its cheap. You are wrong about the OEM part being not prone to failure. I think its the clutch, but that costs a lot of money, so we are trying this first.

The vibration is ALWAYS there.


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Well I ended up getting it trough spmotorsports, for a little a less than $100 w/crank bolt, shipped. Performance Ford never replied to me. My mechanic spent a large amount of time researching this vibration before he started throwing parts at it. After reading several TBS he found out that the damper could be the problem. I don't personally know if this is true but it makes sense to me. The key could of sheared is the only thing I can picture. I will know in one week if this is the problem.


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Originally posted by ottawanker:
Have you tried your local Ford dealer? That's where I got mine. I went one afternoon, and they had one for me by the next morning at 8am. Seems pretty quick.




I tried 2 dealerships here in oregon, both couldn't get it.


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Originally posted by 99TourSVT:
You are wrong about the OEM part being not prone to failure.



I've not run across accounts of failures here in the last two years, but perhaps I missed them.

Originally posted by 99TourSVT:
I think its the clutch, but that costs a lot of money, so we are trying this first. The vibration is ALWAYS there.



Can you notice the vibration when you are driving the car or is it a small enough vibration that it might be there but get drowned out with normal driving vibrations?

My initial suggestion was in response to -
Originally posted by 99TourSVT:
I'm trying to track down my vibration problem, so i decided to try a DMD instead of a stock replacement.



Changing to the DMD won't help you track it down unless that stock one is the problem and that appears unlikely, given that you "think its the clutch". If the problem isn't the crank pulley you may get rid of the vibration but you will have fixed the symptom and left the problem to possibly get worse. I'm not saying don't do that, just that remember you've still got a possible problem.

Originally posted by 99TourSVT:
The main reason im willing the get this part is, I always wanted it, and its cheap.



I had a suspicion that was part of the underlying reason. Honey, the cars not running right I'm going to have to do that 3L swap.

Regards, Alan


03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD 98 Mystique 2.5 MTX 99 SVT - Inheriting Lil Monster's parts 98 SVT - Lil Monster (RIP) 183.7 whp Quaife/Fidanza/UR UD Clutch AFE/MSDS/SHO-Y/Bassani/MagnaCore GC/Koni/22mmR/EndLinks/ES/ KVR Slotted/1144's/SS Lines/MASItaly
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HAHA, I was bummed out when I realized the motor was fine, so no 3L swap.

I dout a dmd works so good I wouldn't be able to tell if the problem was still there or not.

I have driven the car very little since the incident about a month or two ago. The vibration is mostly down low in the rpms, so yes, I might be so small that the motor is masking the vibration at higher rpms, its hard to tell.


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Quote:

I tried 2 dealerships here in oregon, both couldn't get it.




Well, I'm in Canada, that might have something to do with it..? Did you try a Mazda dealer at all?

I paid something like $90 CDN for it, and another $10 CDN for the bolt, even though they said when I ordered it that the pulley was going to cost me something like $155.

EDIT - I guess you've already bought it, so this doesn't really matter.

Oh, and by the way, the reason I switched to the DMD was because my original crank pulley was bent, and making some bad noises.

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