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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 95
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 95 |
I got pictures of how you guys can fix it properly, but i don´t have where to host those pictures, can i send them to anyone of you? (Emai)
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Contour 98.5 GL V6 Manual, 115,000 KM
(actual modifications) magnaflow exhaust
K&N induction kit, sport chip, resonator removed.
iridium plugs, heat deflector,nology wires, no pre-cats.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 95
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 95 |
Got the same problem  I went to a All rubber store and found this.  I retired the excess with a cutter, and I placed it in its place.  Later I made an aluminum opresor to maintain everything in its place. After im goin to make it of nylon for better results.   Finished work.  The aluminum opresor is temporal
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Contour 98.5 GL V6 Manual, 115,000 KM
(actual modifications) magnaflow exhaust
K&N induction kit, sport chip, resonator removed.
iridium plugs, heat deflector,nology wires, no pre-cats.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,975
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,975 |
Originally posted by cvkillacontour98:
the zip tie in my contour has held since may off 2003 when the dealer put it on. it never has fallen off or budged due to heat. so i have plenty of faith in the zip tie. so what kind of rubber did you use, and what size washers. i realy want to fix mine up.
I shattered the end link and that is considerably stronger than a zip tie. 
Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
The lengths some of you people will go to "fix" your car, and for what? The part to fix it right is ~$8. It lasted for SIX YEARS but somehow that is long enough? And you expect the zip tie/e-clip to last longer? To save $8??? Your wife's safety is worth $8?
Some of you shadetrees just need to suck it up and realize that sometime it really is OK to visit the parts department.
EXACTLY
Installing the right part for $8 will take a lot less time than trying to find this part, that part and fooling around with different size washers, different thickness peices of rubber, etc. to get it right.
Originally posted by cvkillacontour98:
the back and forth play on my knob is real noticable.
The "play" is due to the gap inside the end link and the shift tower prong. How do you eliminate the play? Spend $8 for the end link.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,049
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,049 |
can a shift cable end be baught? the only solution for gave me was to buy the whoel shift cable. i went and checked my local salvage yards for the part on nay fwd 5 speed ford btu nothing. you keep saying its a $8 fix but how? i realy want to know. cause so far the 2 washer rubber and snap tie method seems to be the only alternative thta i have seen?
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 123
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 123 |
The referenced thread shows 2 potential OEM replacement parts: XS8Z-7412-GA F7RZ-7412-AA Part descriptions available online aren't detailed enough to differentiate between these 2 parts. I'm just surprised that the OEM part doesn't include any locking mechanism on the metal shift rod -- it's just held in place by friction from the rubber bushing. Ironically, that's the way my temporarily fix is held on.  [As indicated earlier, you can't see my new bushing in the picture posted earlier.] To further enhance the robustness of this temporary fix (notice how I keep saying 'temporary', geesh...), I added a washer and a Zip Tie to hold the washer (not the bushing or cable end) in place. This solution is in many respects superior to the OEM part. The longevity of the solution is dependent upon the lifespan of the Zip Tie. However, it should more than last a couple of days until I get a locking E-Clip (which will make this a permanent fix).
1996 Ford Contour SE (Mine): V-6 MTX/DMD/MSDS/K&N3530/Torsen/Spec-1/Split-Exhaust/Walbro/Syncromax..119K
2003 GMC Yukon XL SLT (Hers): 285HP/Stock..93K
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149 |
Originally posted by 96_98_SE:
I'm just surprised that the OEM part doesn't include any locking mechanism on the metal shift rod -- it's just held in place by friction from the rubber bushing.
Why would it need a retainer? There is NO lateral pressure on the cable end to push it off the rod. Look, the cable isn't doing the hokey pokey. The cable goes in; the cable goes out; there is no shake it all around.
Originally posted by 96_98_SE:
This solution is in many respects superior to the OEM part.
Yes, if there is a gremlin under your hood pushing the cable off the rod then your e-clip/zip-tie solution is better. I drove around for over two weeks with no rubber bushing on the end--it was just the white plastic circle over the rod--and it didn't come off; and if you've noticed the angle it takes to slide the cable end of the rod you'll realize that a retainer is not required. Unless you do some wicked snap shift into third, failure of this bushing DOES NOT result in the cable end sliding off the shaft, it simply results in a loose shifter and difficulty getting into 2nd, 4th, and R. Why is this so hard to understand? 
-- 1999 SVT #220 --
In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
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CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
Well I guess that is what it is all about! Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
Originally posted by 96_98_SE:
I'm just surprised that the OEM part doesn't include any locking mechanism on the metal shift rod -- it's just held in place by friction from the rubber bushing.
Why would it need a retainer? There is NO lateral pressure on the cable end to push it off the rod. Look, the cable isn't doing the hokey pokey. The cable goes in; the cable goes out; there is no shake it all around.
Originally posted by 96_98_SE:
This solution is in many respects superior to the OEM part.
Yes, if there is a gremlin under your hood pushing the cable off the rod then your e-clip/zip-tie solution is better. I drove around for over two weeks with no rubber bushing on the end--it was just the white plastic circle over the rod--and it didn't come off; and if you've noticed the angle it takes to slide the cable end of the rod you'll realize that a retainer is not required. Unless you do some wicked snap shift into third, failure of this bushing DOES NOT result in the cable end sliding off the shaft, it simply results in a loose shifter and difficulty getting into 2nd, 4th, and R. Why is this so hard to understand?
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,049
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,049 |
i just want to know if i can get the cable end separately?
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,975
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,975 |
Originally posted by cvkillacontour98:
i just want to know if i can get the cable end separately?
Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
Interesting fix. If you want to fix it right it'll run you less than $10; I just had the same problem, here is the thread.
Originally posted by 96_98_SE:
The referenced thread shows 2 potential OEM replacement parts:
XS8Z-7412-GA
F7RZ-7412-AA
Come on! It's been posted twice in THIS thread! 
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,483
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,483 |
Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
Look, the cable isn't doing the hokey pokey. The cable goes in; the cable goes out; there is no shake it all around.
I am adding this to my sig.
Frank McCoy aka Mod-deth aka Mid Life Crisis aka SVT Doood aka mcgainer is a SCAM ARTIST
Pre98 Zetec - Some Mods
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