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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Put the right amount, just use cheap oil.




When Kremit says "use cheap oil" he doesn't mean use some off-brand mystery oil from the 99 cent store. He also doesn't mean you should use recycled oil, or cheapo single-viscosity 30-weight oil or anything else like that. What he really means is that you don't need to buy Mobil 1 synthetic oil or any other "premium" oil if you plan on changing it again soon. I'm sure that's what he meant to say, but he ended up posting his typical dangerous half-baked offhand remark instead of posting thorough, useful information.

Here is what you do: buy whatever name brand (Valvoline, Quaker State, etc.) is on sale at Autozone or K-Mart. Buy at least five quarts of 10-30 weight multiviscosity oil, and a new Purolator filter too. Put exactly 4.5 quarts in the motor, and put the new filter on. NEVER put in less than 4.5 quarts, or you could ruin your motor.

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BS dude. Screw you and your half hearted attempted to put me down. He said he is gonna keep it in there for a day. ANY dino oil will be fine for a day (if it's certified and the right viscosity, and what oil isn't certified). There isn't even a huge difference between cheapo dino oil and non cheapo dino oil. You're a retard and you really need to think before you post.
Just looked at your registered date. Stupid newbies. We'll learn you something one day.
And I just realized I probably seem too overworked over it. I don't care if you talk smack about me. But when you post incorrect info (some was correct like use 4.5qts.) AND try to talk smack. Yeah that's not cool.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
ANY dino oil will be fine for a day (if it's certified and the right viscosity, and what oil isn't certified). There isn't even a huge difference between cheapo dino oil and non cheapo dino oil.





There are lots of cheap oils out there that do not belong in our engines, not even for a minute. As you know, there are cheap oils at discount stores (and many other retail outlets) that are not API certified. One brand for sale around here is called "Chalet" and it is definitely not API certified. I wouldn't put it in my lawnmower. And, as I mentioned in my previous post, there are other types of cheap sub-standard oil for sale (recycled, single-vis, etc.). It's stupid to use any oil that does not meet the manufacturer's specs for quality, just to save a few pennies.

Zetecninja is working his ass off to fix his motor. If you are going to advise him, you have an obligation to do it right. It's wrong to tell him to use "cheap oil" without explaining (and limiting) what you mean. It's also wrong to tell him that "ANY" dino oil is OK, even for a short time.



Originally posted by Kremithefrog:


But when you post incorrect info (some was correct like use 4.5qts.) AND try to talk smack. Yeah that's not cool.




I posted incorrect info? What are you talking about? Trust me on this, Kremit: you don't want to start a discussion about posting incorrect info.

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As long as you don't use olive oil, you oughtta be in good shape. Just be sure to buy your oil from the automotive side of Wal Mart, not the grocery side.


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i use andvance auto brand 5W-30 as my "cheap oil" i used it when breaking in teh 3L, i use it in the bronco, especially after the head gasket replacement. costs 99 cents a bottle and works fine. accually its in the 3L now (was broke, couldnt afford mobil1, but will use that from now on)


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Originally posted by caltour:
Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
ANY dino oil will be fine for a day (if it's certified and the right viscosity, and what oil isn't certified). There isn't even a huge difference between cheapo dino oil and non cheapo dino oil.





There are lots of cheap oils out there that do not belong in our engines, not even for a minute. As you know, there are cheap oils at discount stores (and many other retail outlets) that are not API certified. One brand for sale around here is called "Chalet" and it is definitely not API certified. I wouldn't put it in my lawnmower. And, as I mentioned in my previous post, there are other types of cheap sub-standard oil for sale (recycled, single-vis, etc.). It's stupid to use any oil that does not meet the manufacturer's specs for quality, just to save a few pennies.

Zetecninja is working his ass off to fix his motor. If you are going to advise him, you have an obligation to do it right. It's wrong to tell him to use "cheap oil" without explaining (and limiting) what you mean. It's also wrong to tell him that "ANY" dino oil is OK, even for a short time.



Originally posted by Kremithefrog:


But when you post incorrect info (some was correct like use 4.5qts.) AND try to talk smack. Yeah that's not cool.




I posted incorrect info? What are you talking about? Trust me on this, Kremit: you don't want to start a discussion about posting incorrect info.




Like I said, any certified oil is fine for a day.

Trust me I do want to start a discussion on this. I KNOW I have posted incorrect info at times AND I own up to it. You on the other hand post incorrect info AND try to talk smack.

Keep talking smack, it doesn't matter. Zetecninja can decide what oil he wants to use. But since you are soooo right about this, post some links up or something that say any correct viscosity, certified oil can't be used for a day in a car. Yeah, that's right you can't. You don't know anything, so keep your mouth shut.


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i would take her up to highway speed once or twice using a citgo or similar oil brand (very cheap yet still certified).

then do a motor flush (you can buy afush kit at autozone for ~20 dollars) then use mobile one and drive on!.

good to see she will live again, i know people that just replace the motor when the head gasket blows. head gaskets are so much easier than replacing the whole motor, some people just dont realize what it takes to remove a motor, then when they have it halfway out/apart and realize they have to remove the drive axles and stick a boomstick in the diff so the gears dont fall into the bottom of the case, they wonder why they didnt just change the headgasket...


Regards, Cole. Relegating to troll status sometime this week. New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250. Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE* "I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more... "
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Originally posted by Stryker:
i would take her up to highway speed once or twice using a citgo or similar oil brand (very cheap yet still certified).



Naw dude, you gotta use castrol valvoline mobil tri-syntetic blend with double certification.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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heh kremit.


seriously, any dino oil will be fine for a day. if its not certified i woudl be wary, but it cant hurt much and is definately better than no oil. especially if you are only gonna put 20 miles on it. i would definately run 5w30 instead of 10 though.

pennziol, citgo (found @ dollar tree for...yeah, you guessed it, $1.00 per quart). and a 1.99 oil filter and go for 20 miles, do a motor flush and replace the oil with mobil 1 or equvalent (valvoline SynPower is cheaper in some cases). and a good oil filter.


Regards, Cole. Relegating to troll status sometime this week. New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250. Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE* "I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more... "
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See!?! Anything but olive oil. Trust me.


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