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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,483
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,483 |
The pics for this post are wonderful.
Will definately be helpful in the future.
Go for a thinner copper head gasket to increase compression, its a cheap few extra ponnies.
(Of course, if FI is in your future don't).
Frank McCoy aka Mod-deth aka Mid Life Crisis aka SVT Doood aka mcgainer is a SCAM ARTIST
Pre98 Zetec - Some Mods
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
Originally posted by SleeperZ:
The pics for this post are wonderful.
Ditto, though I never hope I have to use them.  
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,262
Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,262 |
i believe the heads on the Zetec are cast iron, like the block. you should be ok if you didnt drive it further than 2 miles at speeds above 30 MPH. when something like this happens, (for future reference) immediately pull over wherever you are. and have the car towed to whereveryou want to be. 
Regards, Cole.
Relegating to troll status sometime this week.
New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250.
Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE*
"I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more...  "
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 17,248
CEG road warrior
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CEG road warrior
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 17,248 |
Originally posted by Stryker:
i believe the heads on the Zetec are cast iron, like the block.
Wrong.....aluminum head, cast iron block.
Hector
2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ
2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s
RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,262
Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,262 |
ah, ok i was wrong, thanks for correcting me.
so yes, do have it looked at, at the very least, if you dont, you will most likely be going through all of this again... 
Last edited by Stryker; 08/27/04 03:36 AM.
Regards, Cole.
Relegating to troll status sometime this week.
New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250.
Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE*
"I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more... "
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,975
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,975 |
Originally posted by ZetecNinja:
alright, thats a good pic at the end too...looks like it would take all of 5 min. to install.
so does the coolant just drains out of there?
No. Well, you could but No.
1)Drain the fluid by the 'invisible' drain plug on the rad
2)Slap a hose (I needed a female/female adapter) to the Tee
3)Turn on hose and the remaining coolant will flow out the overflow
1992 Ford Escort LX-E
-Tracer LTS spoiler
-GT Grille
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 8,143
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 8,143 |
ok well I had the head shaved...only cost me $35 at NAPA too. Soooo I'm in the process of reinstalling the head...right now I've got to reinstall intake manifold, exhaust manifold, coil pack, remove oil filter, drain radiator, reinstall valve cover and thats it! Not much huh?
Wish me luck!
oh yes the guy was telling me how he measured the head...
if its below 2000 something then it doesn't need to be machined...anything over does and mine was only 6000 so it was barely touched but needed to be done so I wasn't going through the same thing again.
oh and you say draining the radiator gets rid of the coolant in here correct?
and and ONE MORE question
how the hell do I get that 02 sensor out of the exhaust manifold? Do I just use a regular wrench or what? I need a socket to fit on that damn thing because its too tight for a regular wrench. And this fake PB Blaster Autozone crap hasn't worked one time yet! 
Last edited by ZetecNinja; 08/29/04 08:48 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 637
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 637 |
Yes, draining the radiator will drain the coolant out of the block (most of it, anyway). It's a good idea to drain and refill your coolant before you restart the motor, because there are probably bits of gasket material in there from when you scraped the gasket surface clean. A good flushing is recommended.
It's also a good idea to change your oil and filter before restarting, because some of the coolant that was in your cylinders may have drained down into the crankcase.
About removing the sensor: I use Liquid Wrench and WD-40. Doesn't work every time, but usually does. Maybe someone here can advise as to whether applying some heat to the area where the threads are would ruin the sensor?
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 8,143
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 8,143 |
yea I drained the radiator...damn that crap came gushing down my arm fast Wasn't expecting that...the coolant that came out was green though! Like fresh coolant...I even put water in the overflow tank afterwards and it came out clean so maybe it didn't need the flush but oh well...can't hurt anyway. I do have new plugs, new oil filter, new oil, new intake manifold gasket, new exhaust manifold gasket waiting to go in... My uncle also says that when I have everything put back together I just put it new oil and run it for a day then drain it out again and add new oil. I guess its supposed to get rid of any old bad oil still in there. I don't wanna put the recommended amount if I'm just gonna drain it out the next day so should about 2 bottles be good?
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
Put the right amount, just use cheap oil.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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