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#1012542 07/27/04 09:15 PM
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Originally posted by phattysvt:
so i need to do somehting so i can keep up for a lil bit at least.. haha


sit shotgun. you'll be side by side with them the whole way


'03 SRT-4 50 trim turbo + support
#1012543 07/27/04 09:49 PM
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Unless you're best friends with the owner of this shop, you're most likely going to pay quite a bit for the R&D and labor of this job.. You'd be better off getting the SF/ACD kit and finding a couple buddies with some knowledge and/or experience and put it on.. But good luck either way..

Mark


2000 Black CSVT 3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
#1012544 07/27/04 10:39 PM
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i would shoot myself if i got OWN3D by my sister

its bad enough my mom has a G35...but i got plans for a mom vs son battle at infineon when i get home

oh yeah the post....the streetflight kit is worth the cash by all means. especially if you have a shop do it that will get you with crazy shoptime charges at the end. if you personally have the skills to do it, the best to ya but there are very few on here capable of accomplsihing that task correctly.


E0 silver #185 *3L hybrid+lots of mods DYNO(moderate tune): 205 whp/ 190ftlb http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/449801
#1012545 07/28/04 04:57 AM
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Originally posted by phattysvt:
1. and honestly, that is better than spending 5500.00 on the street flight kit.
2. i was hopefully looking to have someone do it. there is a big shop around me that has put custom turbos on numerous cars including mustangs. he has also done a lot of work on some svt contours.



1. Not after LABOR!!!

2. That $3500 or my estimate is with ALL LABOR done by you.

Shop rates are $40 for a backyard mechanic to $80+ for a speed shop.

That's PER HOUR.

R&D and fabrication would cost a couple grand in labor alone. Much less installation and shop storage time.

If you add that to the $3500 estimate you get what... That TRIED, TESTED, & TRUE ADC turbo kit.

Hell probably even more to be honest. Shops just don't work for free.


BTW building a turbo kit for a Mustang and for a Contour are not remotely similiar besides the fact both use piping and turbos. (and are Fords I guess )

What about tuning?
What about... That ? list is long...


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#1012546 07/28/04 02:32 PM
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Originally posted by cfcsvt:
Originally posted by stilov:
there is a post in pics/videos of another guys...




That would be me =D

I am actually dynotuning tomorrow evening at 6pm, I cant wait!

-Ken




You guys figure out your issue?


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#1012547 07/30/04 10:28 PM
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as for the shop time and labor money, my gf's dad is the boss of the guy who owns the shop. they are really close friends.. so.. also, he was supposed to sponsor me earlier, but somehting happened to his house, and he was out a bunch of money or somehting.. so.. thats y i was thinking that.. but thanks for the help everybody. let me know

#1012548 08/03/04 03:24 PM
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Originally posted by todras:
Originally posted by cfcsvt:
Originally posted by stilov:
there is a post in pics/videos of another guys...




That would be me =D

I am actually dynotuning tomorrow evening at 6pm, I cant wait!

-Ken




You guys figure out your issue?




Which issue are we talking about, LOL! Ummm, I think I have found the vacuum leak, it seems as though the new clips on the 37 lb injectors are slighter higher so I had to move the wires..it seems as though they were interfering w/ the way the upper manifold was sitting on the lower manifold..causing a large vacuum leak.

The car was running at 8 (whatever measurement used) of vacuum instead of around 20 at idle and I still cant hit boost. However, once we get the upper back on, we will see if the vacuum issue is gone.

If we still get no boost, then we will have to see if the wastegate is stuck open, we d/c'd the vacuum lines to the wastegate and still hit 0 boost, so we will have to see after reassembly of the upper manifold. Once we get boost at that point we will dyno tune..right now there is a chip in the car to let it know the injector size and pump and what not that i have to avoid it running so rich that if I drive one mile i hvae to change the oil. Still running quite rich though...Now it runs no higher than about 590 degrees EGT while driving and 350 at idle..so as you can see, still running FATTT!LOL

Still havent figured out the problem w/ the coil, right now until we get it running right...it is connected to a power wire so that the car runs w/ no probs, only problem w/ that is it wont shut off unless I d/c it...so probably Thursday I will try and run it into the car and connect it to an accessory so that when I turn the car off, the car will actually turn off. Unfortunately there is nothing in the cd manual that can let us know exactly the path of that wire that isnt getting power, so I have to trace it all over until I find where it has power and do a re-splice to get back to normal.

-Ken

P.S. sorry so long, and also sorry so late on the reply, if any of you want to give me some feedback on the few issues I have presented, by all means let hear em. Thanks.


'00 svt #1485/2150 Precision SC6152E .63 a/r, PnP Heads, TiAL 38mm Wastegate, Blitz BOV, HKS EBC, and HKS TT, Koni's Front/Rear, 19" Centerline RPMs, SPEC Stage 5 Clutch and Flywheel, DMD, Intrax, LoTek w/ Water Temp, Oil Press., EGT, Boost Gauge
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