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#1009077 07/20/04 06:21 PM
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This is making me crazy.

Here's the scenario: I have no cash. I have the stock "premium sound" cd player. I was given a used Hifonics 200w 4-channel amp. I want to replace the stock amp with the Hifonics amp. I purchased a wiring kit from Knu, wired everything up, and that's where the problem reared its ugly head:

To test out my wiring I connected a 12v constant power supply to the remote turn-on of the amp, it powers up and plays great, but since the amp is always on there's a wicked "thump" whenever you turn the CD player on and off. OK, so of course you want to use a switched power source for the remote turn-on. However...

The stock Ford system uses a remote turn-on lead of 7 volts. When connected to the Hifonics amp, the voltage drops to around 5 volts, so obviously there's not enough current there to trigger the amp's turn-on.

I then tried the 12v antenna lead - same problem. As soon the it sees a load (ie. physically wired to the amp), the voltage drops even more, to just a couple of volts. Again, not enough to trigger the turn-on on the amp.

Then I got creative. I bought a Bosch-type 30 amp 4-post automotive relay, wired it into the antenna lead, and used it to switch a 12v constant supply from the same feed going to the amp's 12v constant. Same problem - the 12v antenna lead doesn't even supply enough current to switch the relay.

I'm going crazy with this... does anyone have the solution to my problem? (Other than buying a new head unit - that's obvious, but simply not an option at this time.)



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#1009078 07/21/04 02:03 PM
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What if you spliced into the 12 volt cigarette lighter. This would provide the 12 volts you need and you could always put a switch inline. It might be a pain if you have to turn on radio, turn on switch, but it would work. I am sure better ideas will turn up.


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#1009079 07/21/04 03:51 PM
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Originally posted by snowb159:
What if you spliced into the 12 volt cigarette lighter. This would provide the 12 volts you need and you could always put a switch inline. It might be a pain if you have to turn on radio, turn on switch, but it would work. I am sure better ideas will turn up.



I'd like to avoid wiring a switch. I'm trying to make this work exactly like the stock system, with the exception of sounding better.


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#1009080 07/21/04 07:28 PM
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Could you tap your radio fuse for the 12V power line?

#1009081 07/22/04 07:51 PM
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Originally posted by Davo7SVT:
Could you tap your radio fuse for the 12V power line?



I don't understand what you mean. I have a 12v constant line already powering the amp. All I need is a 12v turn-on lead with enough current capacity to trigger the amp to turn on and off.


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#1009082 07/22/04 08:11 PM
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Can you use that lead to turn your amp on?

#1009083 07/23/04 03:21 AM
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Just take the turn on lead and stick with the radio fuse into the fuse box. They sell things that go on the fuse that allows you to make a better connection than just shoving the wire in there. That should make it work fine. The radio fuse is like a 7 amp fuse IIRC, just pull one by one and see if radio works to find it.


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#1009084 07/23/04 04:05 AM
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Why not just tap into your car's accessory/ignition?


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#1009085 07/23/04 01:48 PM
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Originally posted by arjoel:
Why not just tap into your car's accessory/ignition?



I did have it wired that way, with the amp powering on / off with the ignition, but it would produce a massive "thump" through the speakers whenever I turned the headunit on / off. I attributed this to the fact that the amp would remain on even though the headunit's power would be cycling. Of course, it could jest be the crappy Ford headunit causing the "thump".


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#1009086 07/24/04 10:24 PM
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perhaps a inferior ground could cause the popping?

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