Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Original Brake Fluid

Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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b.t.w. I'm a little surprised that you mentioned your routine on coolant and brake fluid, but said nothing about your P/S fluid.

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Originally posted by JEDsContour:

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MeanGreen2, if you are going to go that far, why not do it right and actually bleed the system? Blake fluid doesn't circulate and you are doing nothing to remove the inevitable gas bubbles and very little to remove moisture.

Sucking the crappy fluid out of the reservoir and pouring some clean fluid in sounds more like a used car salesman trick than a legitimate maintenance practice.

Of course I can see the value of handeling the power steering fluid this way.

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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:

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Some people skimp on the time (even though it's hardly/if any added time) they spend on maintaining their cars. Bleeding the brakes is definitely better than just replacing some of the fluid with a turkey baster or whatever.

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Hi, Mozart.

This isn't a bleeding issue, it's a flushing issue.

And 10 - 1 odds that your system is the one with the real sludge and gunk build-up, not mine.

Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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Bet my fluid is as clean, if not cleaner than most here...even the ones that seem more worried about my car than they are for their own cars.

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Originally posted by JEDsContour:

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Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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Bet my fluid is as clean, if not cleaner than most here...even the ones that seem more worried about my car than they are for their own cars.

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I don't care about your car at all, just the quality of the advice (or lack of) that you post on this site.

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Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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I only have about 41,000 miles on my 2000 SVT, but for about 10 years now, I've made it a practice to *suck-out* my brake fluid and my P/S fluids with every oil change, topping them off with new fluid. To this day, they're as clean as they were when I drove the car off the dealership's lot. As for the coolant, I test it each year, using test strips...if it holds up nicely for 50,000 miles, then I replace the hoses and do a complete change...then I'm good for another 50,000 miles.

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Originally posted by Alan Coles:

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Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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I only have about 41,000 miles on my 2000 SVT, but for about 10 years now, I've made it a practice to *suck-out* my brake fluid and my P/S fluids with every oil change, topping them off with new fluid. To this day, they're as clean as they were when I drove the car off the dealership's lot. As for the coolant, I test it each year, using test strips...if it holds up nicely for 50,000 miles, then I replace the hoses and do a complete change...then I'm good for another 50,000 miles.

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Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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Bet my fluid is as clean, if not cleaner than most here...even the ones that seem more worried about my car than they are for their own cars.
Then again, most that have dirtier systems than mine, go on to re-use their calipers/wheel cylinders when it's time to replace their pads/shoes...I'll install new calipers and rotors, of course.

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Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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This isn't a bleeding issue, it's a flushing issue.
And 10 - 1 odds that your system is the one with the real sludge and gunk build-up, not mine.

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MeanGreen2, you seem to be more interested in how clean things are than how good they are. Being anal doesn't make you right, just anal. If you want to replace calipers/wheel cylinders before there is any valid reason, be my guest, but don't throw that out as making your unsupported point-of-view correct.

First, if you aren't bleeding your brakes but instead you "*suck-out* my brake fluid" than you've likely lost your bet to Kermithefrog.

I would suggest that your "don't confuse me with the facts" attitude is obvious to everyone but you. However, if you'll continue to read with an OPEN MIND, you might actually learn something.

What he and Demon have been trying to tell you is that you are approaching the braking system in the wrong manner.

1 - Contaminants in the brake system settle to the bottom of the system and not the top.
2 - The brake system should only be opened up to do a complete and proper bleeding of the system.
3 - Sucking out the top of your master cylinder doesn't do anything other than a) make your fluid look good and b) introduce more mositure from the atmosphere into your system so that it can mix with the already hydrated gunk you have let accumulate at the bottom of the brake system.

Your method likely has reduced your brake fluids wet boiling point by 50% or more versus doing proper maintenance of a complete brake bleeding. A closed system absorbs between 2%-3.5% moisture per year. From what you have said, you've opened yours up continually exposing it at an accelerated rate to moisture, and left the most significant portion of your "old" brake fluid in the system to make matters worse.

Please don't respond with the same old tired crap:

Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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Bet my fluid is as clean, if not cleaner than most here...

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A reasoned and thoughtful response would be more appropriate.

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I'm not worried about how clean your fluid is, worry-wart.

Reasoned and thoughtful?

Will I need to about your brake fluid as much as you've cried about mine?

Fact remains...Bet my fluid is as clean, if not cleaner than most here...

Originally posted by Big Jim:

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So what's so great about Ford's brake fluid? It may start life at a 550 degree dry boiling point, but it doesn't last, and the wet boiling point is only about half that.

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Jim where the Ford HD Brake Fluid gets it's supporters is mostly from people who are racing, doing several Track Days a year, or, for other reasons such as very agressive maintenance schedules, are changing brake fluid 2-3+ times a year.

If you're changing your brake fluid 2 or more time a year then the Dry Boiling Point (DBP) is of greater significance than the Wet Boiling Point (WBP) and therefore the Ford Brake Fluid becomes a very economical means of having a 550 fluid that's going to be changed within 1-3 months and therefore the fluids low WBP isn't an issue. WBP is measured at a water content of 3.7% IIRC and the estimate is that brake fluid in a properly maintained (unopened) system absorbs moisture at a rate of approximately 2% per year so the WBP is a measure at approximately 22 months. The system actually absorbs water through the rubber brake hoses, from washing the car, etc., so each car will actually reach the WBP at a different time.

Most people will never boil their brake fluid. An emergency stop from say 80 MPH won't do it to new or even 1-2 year old fluid but a second one quickly after that likely would to 2 year old stuff. Mountain driving and other relatively extreme conditions also increase the need to look at these things.

Your Valvoline Synpower has (had ) a much better WBP than the Ford fluid but lower DBP to start with, so you're giving up 10% initially for a longer servicable life. For most situations that's likely the wisest thing to do.

Regards, Alan

Originally posted by MeanGreen2:

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Fact remains...Bet my fluid is as clean, if not cleaner than most here...

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