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Originally posted by JEDsContour: Originally posted by JonnySVT: SleeperZ, I already brought this party to an end. I noticed they didn't respond after I actually did the leg work instead of just denying things without back up... It's all good in the hood!
"good in the hood!" is one reason it is exhausting to argue this.
DeamonSVT's calculated numbers are much higher than what I calculated. I was looking at the Ebay version of this based on an RC airplane ducted fan (not a bilge pump). To me it looks like it would start acting as a restriction at around 4000 to 5000 RPM and would cost significant horsepower at higher RPM.
BNoon saw real gains on a dyno. Does he still have it in his car?
JonnySVT I certainly think you should buy this thing, run it for a couple thousand miles, or as far as you can, then tell us what you think.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Don't know how I managed to quote myself there! When I first looked at the ERAM I was thinking about my V6 Ford Explorer - it seemed to me that it might increase the available torque on this low RPM motor - especially since I already had a large battery and high output alternator. (trailer and towing package). Yes, if working properly I figured I probably would see some increased torque at WOT - but overal for me it would be more trouble than it was worth.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by JonnySVT: SleeperZ, I already brought this party to an end. I noticed they didn't respond after I actually did the leg work instead of just denying things without back up... It's all good in the hood!
Thanks for doing the leg work! This comes up once a month, and I've become tired of searching for people.
Frank McCoy aka Mod-deth aka Mid Life Crisis aka SVT Doood aka mcgainer is a SCAM ARTIST
Pre98 Zetec - Some Mods
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OK I give up looking, it's been too long and I can't find the thread - but maybe someone else remembers. About two years or so ago a large number (10 or more) Datsun Z car owners (300zx) bought ERAMs as part of a group buy on their forum. They were looking at the same claims and advertising we see now.
Anyway each of these guys bought two ERAMs (the 300zx has two inlet tubes). $600 per car with tremendous anticipation of expected gains.
When it was all over not one of them was happy with the things or even left it installed on their cars. Big disappointment to say the least. No one could tell any difference with them installed and some even claimed it bogged them down. Only the guy who started the group buy claimed any improvement (about 5 to 10 HP if I remember correctly). He took it to a dyno to save his rep!
Anyway, maybe some of the terrific searchers posting in this thread could find this old Datsun group buy thread and post a link. I think I first heard about it either on CEG or maybe the "Serious Explorations" web site. It is worthwhile reading if you are thinking of spending your money.
Incidentally, my old calculations were based on a 4.0L engine displacement, not a 2.5L. With 2.5L I get closer to the numbers that DemonSVT calculated.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Quote:
"good in the hood!" is one reason it is exhausting to argue this.
Quote:
JonnySVT I certainly think you should buy this thing, run it for a couple thousand miles, or as far as you can, then tell us what you think.
I have no plans on buying one, nor did I ever. The debate was whether they worked or not, and I proved that they in fact worked. I don't care how much of an improvement or what disadvantages they have, I was just proving that it worked. Would I even consider buying one? Hell no, that's retarded and all of those guys with the 300zs are retarded.
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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Originally posted by JonnySVT: I have no plans on buying one, nor did I ever. The debate was whether they worked or not, and I proved that they in fact worked. I don't care how much of an improvement or what disadvantages they have, I was just proving that it worked. Would I even consider buying one? Hell no, that's retarded and all of those guys with the 300zs are retarded.
Well, that's one hell of a ringing endoresement for ERAM!
Maybe they would post this in the "Testimonials" section of their advertising web-site! (Nah)
"Good in the Hood" was simply an allusion to the "group-think" that occurs anytime young car enthusiasts start talking about cheap horepower.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Originally posted by JEDsContour: Incidentally, my old calculations were based on a 4.0L engine displacement, not a 2.5L. With 2.5L I get closer to the numbers that DemonSVT calculated.
Well exactly...
The smaller the displacement the more power it will make since the CFM flow is set. (Well intake variables effect efficiency of course)
A 3L would really need 2 ERAMs to make a dent in the performance above 5000rpm.
The biggest area of gains on any setup would be low and mid range rpm where the fan is handily outflowing the engine's natural pull.
For ref - I do not see this making significant gains on any engine over around 4L. The fans just do not push enough air. Yes even 2 of them combined.
It would be cool to see twin ERAMs on a hot 3L though. Just to see what it would do...
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Quote:
"Good in the Hood" was simply an allusion to the "group-think" that occurs anytime young car enthusiasts start talking about cheap horepower.
That statement had nothing to do with "young enthusiasts talking about cheap hp" and I fail to see how you made this connection. I guess I'll go back to playing with my Tonka trucks now.
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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OP
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Originally posted by DJ Capp 911: Okay, this poor young misguided kid needs some serious help. I went to your homepage and I have to stop you before you do really gay things with your car. 1. Do not put those subs!!! good subs cost more than $18!!! With that said you don't have to pay an arm and a leg either. Most of the people on this site will tell you h ow to do things the best possible way. They often forget that some of us are ballin on a budget. Buy car stereo stuff used if you can, preferably from someone local so you can see and hear the stuff in action. You can save a lot of money and get good equipment that way. Wheel covers are lame, search the classifieds for one of the following Stock 15 inch late model rims like the ones with the 7 spokes. You will get better handling with the larger wheels too and so many people have put aftermarket rims on their car that you can get 15" stockers for very cheap. Probably with tires too. Stock 16" late model SVT wheels. I bought a set of these with tires for 400 bucks Stock Wheel covers- It doesn't matter what kind of wheel covers you put on, anytime people see aftermarket wheel covers, they think " that is gay"
Okay, I agree the wheel covers do suck but the subs I got were the best subs I could get which I could mount under the back dash (no trunk space taken at all!). Much dremeling was needed though. And bam, the system works great! It wasn't made to rattle people's windows, just to up the stock system so it sounds better.
95 Contour GL V6 ATX
full of little experimental mods that make me happy
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Originally posted by blackwidowSVTT: DONT ! DONT ! DONT ! Thats from someone that knows someone ! Buy something with proven HP. Not some website with false claims. -B.
I looked into electric forced induction some more and the power drain issue is the main problem (If you want enough push). Constant consumption to maintain a spinning blower isn't good is you don't need the power.
I'm now going to install a homemade nitro induction kit before I go to college. It is better because there is only power when you need it.
Even without Nitrous I can just pump 100+ psi of air at the push of a button through the system. Even if you can turn off the blower it will put less restriction on the air intake flow because all it is is a little nozzle vs. a fan (when it is not activated)
95 Contour GL V6 ATX
full of little experimental mods that make me happy
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