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techme Offline OP
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I removed the air duct from the TB and looked inside today. Holy cow. How'd it get so dirty? I always thought that only clean air went into there and I'm a good guy and change my oil and go to church so why's it so dirty? I've read all of the posts about B-12 and cleaning and am looking forward to doing it vey soon (including EGR passages). It's great that CEG has such as wealth of info for searchers. Only a few questions in my mind that you should feel welcome to comment on (not really answered in the posts):

- how the !@#$ did it get so dirty / gummy in there? Could huge AFE cone filter with oil on it cause this or is this just business as usuall?

- so when you do the TB / EGR clean, always take care not to let any crud go into intake right? Well when you B-12 the crap out of your intake, doesn't junk break loose and go speading past the injectors and valves? Seems like this would be pretty harmful. I haven't done an intake cleaning since my 1974 Dodge dart so I am familiar with the white smoke drill but that was a 4bbl holley or edlebrock.

Looking forward to spring cleaning. 'Bout time (120k miles). Thanks guys!

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ok for how it got so dirty.

the reason it gets so dirty is because of the egr valve and the pcv valve, not you filter that has very little to do with it. the geniuses over at ford thought by putting a teflon coating on the back of the throttle plate that it would help prevent this. well i got news it didnt.

manifold cleaning

when you clean the TB and EGR passage you are correct that you do not want to let the crud get in the intake manifold. But if you are trying to clean the manifold themselves without removing them, you would use berryman b-12 in one of the vacuum ports(you prob already know this). when you are cleaning the manifold yes some stuff will come loose and go into the combustion chamber, but this is ok as long as it is not a huge piece. since it goes into the combustion chamber it gets burned up no harm there.

what i recomment you do instead of just those two things would be this

1. instead of cleaning the manifolds while they are still on remove them and clean them. all the info on this can be found here

intake rebuild

2. since you are going to be cleaning the throttle body you are gonna have to remove it. since you are removing it why not optimize it while you are at it the how to is here

throttle body optimizing

also at that mileage you should replace the PCV valve if you have not done so already for info on this pm or im me

all of these items will help greatly in improving performance, mileage, and throttle response.(PCV will only improve mileage)

if you have any questions about how to do any of these things or just in general drop me a pm or im me @ jackelcrazy. i'll give you any info you need


98.5 Black SE ATX S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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Wow I am glad I saw this thread. Thanks for the very good info!

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techme Offline OP
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These CEGers can be so helpful and patient! Thanks for the feedback. I don't know why I didn't think of the burn oil from the PCV and the nasty pre-cat'd gasses from the EGR being a huge factor. I still couldn't believe the 'gunk' immediately viewable. Can't wait to try these improvements.

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I useed your segestions and did the B-12 through the vacuume ports on the UIM worked great! I did that first and hardly saw any carbon deposits in the UIM however I was getting code 401 and 402 I then took the trodle body off and the passages for the EGR we stuffed full of carbon then I cleaned that off I only saw one whole there on the right side looks like it come straight from the EGR vavle area. I didn't see one on the other end (left side) is there one ? I now only get code 402 and before my EGR was able to take the hose on the top with no porblems when I attached it this time the car begain to run ruff and then stalled. I am not sure that I have the vacuume tubes run right int he first place. Is there a place I can view the vacuume routes? I took them off and don't know that I put them back right could a mixed up vacuume tube make that happen when I took the EGR out to clean it I sucked on it and the vavle at the bottom opend up and closed when I did that. do you think I need a new EGR valve or is it the EGR sensor? ANYONE HELP with knowldge!!


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techme Offline OP
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I am not positive but I think that you might be referring to your PCV (ported crankcase ventilation) valve as an EGR? The PVC valve is the one with the bobber or float in it that rattles when you shake it right? The little plastic device? When you take the throttle body TB off you are looking at the EGR PASSAGES and mine were 100% full of hard black/brown sludge. There is a small pocket near the right passages and I'm not sure if that is supposed to lead somewhere or not. doesn't seem like it would because then it'd just go to a water jacket or something. Anyway, it should be pretty hard to mess up your PVC plumbinb. the PVC fits in the big hard rubber hose, The next arm goes to the corregated wrapped hose that goes towards the firewall and the other arm goes to a rubber hose which connects to a metal tube that connects to the LIM (lower intake manifold) as far as I can tell. I hope this helps. Not sure what other lines you may have disconnected. If you connected the lines at the top of the upper intake manifold (UIM), The port closest to the firewall goes to the power brake booster. Hope this helps. So far none of my CEL (check engine lights) have come back. Was throwing a P0420 before B-12 and PVC change.

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Ok I am talking about the vacumme lines that come off the maifold then split into 3 seperate lines one going to the EGR sensor and then the others goin to who know's but if you can find a diagram of the vacumme lines and how they route from that point on that would be helpfull also when I pu the EGR hose on the car dies!! so if I leave it off seems to run fine but throws the 402 code


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Aw crap. I meant to go out there and look for you. I'm at work now and it's raining. I hope you've already got it. Let me know.

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Originally posted by techme:
PCV (ported crankcase ventilation)




That would be POSITIVE crankcase ventalation. Before PCV, cars had passive crankcase ventilation, also known as a road draft tube. The road draft tube was pretty useless until the car was traveling above about 25 mph. PCV system works whenever the engine is producing vacuum.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
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Thanks. Hate when I type as fast as possible and don't proof what I typed. Thanks for the correction.


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