Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio Newbie Contour owner with Dynamat questions

First off, I think this forum is great! If anyone has the time to respond, I've got some questions that I couldn't resolve using the search function:

1) After removing the factory foam pad from the metal inner door, how did you get the white caulk-like adhesive residue off the metal? Acetone or rubbing alcohol maybe? I know it'll never show, but will acetone hurt the paint?

2) The foam pad form-fits the plastic/cosmetic door panel and inserts into the holes in the metal door. The dynamat will form-fit the metal inner door panel and cover the holes. How does it accomodate the contours of the plastic panel when putting it back on? Does that make sense? I'm afraid that after putting the dynamat on the inner metal door, I won't be able to fit the plastic door panel back on. -No problem or what?

3) Did you guys remove all bolts and wires before the dynamat or mat right over them?

4) At the risk of dating myself, my lower back is telling me to remove the doors for the dynamat and running the speaker wires. (I know it's a litlle bit of a PIA, but it makes things a lot easier). Anyone else done this?

5) No flames please, but to be honest, the contour has the most soundproofing of any car I've ever had. :rolleyes: Is all this work really worth it?

Thanks in advance . . . seriously.

Uncle Ron-
Welcome to the CEG.
Q 1. Try Goo Gone. I have used this on the outside of the doors to remove tar and other debris with no damage whatsoever.

Q 2. I didn't use dynamat I used a much cheaper substitute. I can't speak for others, but I took the foam liner and used it as a template for cutting. I also put the foam back over my alternative dyanamat.

Q 3. Right over the wires

Q 4. I built adapters to fit the factory harness and rigged my crossovers to rest on the bottom of the door.

Q 5. No flames necessary.

My substitute was a thin floor covering from home depot. I was a carpet that would be used for a sub box. It had a rubber back on it and was easy to cut. I used 3M super 77 spray adhesive and a roller. I recently saw something that could work as well. Mechanics use a rubber sheet on the bottom of their tool drawers. This might be better. A lot of the guys here are using self adhesive roofing insulation with the brand name Resisto. Dynamat is too expensive for my tastes.

Hope that helps.

Hey Keyser,

Thanks for the response! I didn't use actual Dynamat either. I'm using the stuff from Mcmaster-Carr. Glad to hear there's no problem with putting the door panel back in place after the mastic. Thanks again!

I have the McMaster Carr stuff as well.
"Hi-Temp Mastic Sound Deadning Material" I believe its called. Pretty reasonably priced.

go to home depot and get stuff for your roof called ice and water shield, or basically something like that, cost about 30 bucks for a few hundred feet, its great, i doubled mine up and works just as good as any dynomated trunk ive ever seen, then sell thew extra to some stupid kid and charge him more than what u paid and u got a free soundproof trunk

vinny

I only used Mastic on the outer door skin interior, and then I sprayed over that and the inner door skin with this stuff called Cascade VB-2 spray - like spray dynamat.
I covered the wires with aluminum foil and then when the spray dried I pulled it off

you can get the spray for $20 from parts-express.com
enjoy.

Thanks Ikarus. I never thought about aluminum foil. Sure beats masking tape!

My best friend just moved to Charlotte. He loves it.