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I tried the Haynes way...assistant lay on brakes and put it in fifth. But the crank clearly turns. The book doesn't say which way to turn the bolt, but it obvious to me it's counter-clockwise. I know the "FordTool" is some strap to restrain it, but I wouldn't expect the crank to turn THAT much. It's like the brakes aren't even applied!!!
Am I to resort to a strap device, and should the crank move a lot anyways?
1992 Ford Escort LX-E
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-GT Grille
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Pull the spark plug wires (so the engine will not start.) Place a box wrench on the end of the crank bolt and lay it against the frame (in the engine bay,) get in the car and bump the starter for about .02 secs. Your bolt is now loose.
'95 Mystique ATX I4 2.0 134,000mi
'96 Contour MTX I4 2.0 36,000mi
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Unconventional, but prolly work. UNfortuantely I've already taken valve cover off, but I guess I could pop that back on in a jiffy. Thanks for popping in Nighthawk.
Anymore suggestions?
1992 Ford Escort LX-E
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Hold a long piece of wood against the timing belt while someone turns the crank pulley bolt. *Kremithefrog is not liable for any injuries or damage to people, animals, or vehicles*
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Hold a long piece of wood against the timing belt while someone turns the crank pulley bolt. *Kremithefrog is not liable for any injuries or damage to people, animals, or vehicles*
I did that... Crank pulley will just slide across the timing belt, then snap it...
Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX
Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan 
--Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
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Results may vary. 
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Hehe, i got pissed at my crank pulley, took the biggest vice grips i had, got it around it vertically, had it hit the body, took a breaker bar with the 18MM Socket, and got it free
Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX
Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan
--Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
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Thanks guys, I'm not so sure of the safety of having a wrench on a spinning crank Nighthawk, but thanks for the suggestion. Also, a mech friend said there might be a dust cap over an opening to the flywheel, I can jam a screwdriver in there. Or would I have to remove the starter like an Atx?
1992 Ford Escort LX-E
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Originally posted by Cris'pus:
Thanks guys, I'm not so sure of the safety of having a wrench on a spinning crank Nighthawk, but thanks for the suggestion. Also, a mech friend said there might be a dust cap over an opening to the flywheel, I can jam a screwdriver in there. Or would I have to remove the starter like an Atx?
As long as you lay the end of the wrench on the sub frame you will be fine, I have yet to hear anyone get hurt by doing this on their SHO (including me a couple times). Also that is why you pull the plugs wires or the PCM fuse so it does not start. And it is a lot safer and faster than trying to use the other suggestions on here.
There is even a write up on www.Shotimes.com about how to loosen the bolt.
Quote:
18) Now for the exciting part, removing the flywheel bolt. Make sure DIS is disconnected step (12). Put 19mm impact socket on "Craftsman Lifetime Warranty" wrench and place on crank bolt (shown). Place it so the wrench rests on subframe. Attach battery to car with good jumper cables or just place battery in the battery area and reconnect battery cables. Make sure car is in NEUTRAL. Crank starter for less then 1/2 a second. You will hear a clunk and the bolt is loose.
'95 Mystique ATX I4 2.0 134,000mi
'96 Contour MTX I4 2.0 36,000mi
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Thanks again for the in-depth info Nighthawk. I got it done by removing a dust cover to the flywheel and jammming a screwdriver into it and against a support of somesort. I'm making a howto with pics so I'll post then where and how. Thankfully that stupid thing is off and my belt and 1 tensioner. Still got the lower one and upper idler pulley. BTW, those are T-40 Torx right? Also, I completely lost timing. (Left camtool in whilst trying to get back to TDC(wondered why I couldn't turn it more. So now when my pulley mark is TDC both cams are way of  ) Somebody troutslap me for that one.
1992 Ford Escort LX-E
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-GT Grille
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