Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Maintenance Changing PCV - Lots of work - Any advice/shortcuts

Greetings;

I've got a 1995 Contour I-4, 109,000K miles.
I wanted to change the PCV, usually a simple task on most
cars. So I looked in the Haynes book then under the car hood
and discovered WOW!!! This is not going to be easy.
Seems you have to remove some exhaust parts just to get
to the oil separator where the PCV lives.

My friendly mechanic is all smiles. He wants 2.9 hours
labor @ $62 = $180 plus $7 for the part. Such a deal.

Are there any secret procedures that can let the average
shadetree mechanic change it for less $$$$$. Seems like a
poor design if you ask me. I'm thinking of giving it a try
anyway. Anyone have good/bad experiences doing this?

Gary Jabo
Atlanta. (I run a 180 F thermostat).

Heres a better how-to.....

It isnt really that hard, just time consuming. Be sure to have an extra gallon of coolant as you will lose about that much. After finishing fill the coolant tank back up, then drive around and let the car heat up so the thermostat opens. Go home and look at your coolant level it will be lower because the thermostat opened, just add more coolant and your done.

It will take 30 minutes MAX to change the pcv valve, find a new mechanic. It is still a PITA. You must remove the exhaust manifold heat shield, but that it's. It helps to have two people doing this. Get one person under the car and one above. One above pries the hard pcv pipe/hose back while one under wiggles the pcv valve out, one above removes valve, replaces and shoves back down toward general direction while one under guides back into the hole. One above has to help push the pipe/hose back all the way. And your done.


I'm not sure what hitman and is talking about coolant for. I rarely understand what he is talking about. Just a little bit of advice, take advice from people that have actually done the work to their cars, not one that just likes to talk about the work. And although how-tos are nice, they are often misleading or have you do too many steps.


Also, as roger always says, it's usually good to replace the pipe/hose (or atleast the elbow) while your doing it as it often cracks for normal wear. Mine was fine though.

Dont just add pure coolant. You will lose some but if you add straight coolant back in you will up your mixture most likely making the car run hotter.

You don't HAVE to touch the coolant if you don't want to. And actually if you add coolant it will be the same because coolant is just the general term, now I think you meant don't just add antifreeze.

Actaully Kermi, when I did this I removed the thermostat as well. I forgot that I did two things at once, because thermostat was acting up that is why I undid that coolant hose for.

So yeah you might br right you dont lose any coolant.

Sorry I sounded like an ahole I was drinking... but anyways I'm sure it won't be the last time.

I unfortunately did it.

I think the pre pcv is different than post98 ones I think, but mine was suckie by myself. My elbow was metal and I couldn't pull it back as the How-to said.
Also I had to cut the rubber pipe of and scrape some of it. I replaced it which made it slightly easier to put the new valve in.
I put my valve in the new hose and bent the hose to get it into the housing.
Get a non-stiff hose(dealer supplied or any proper hose), mine was hard and a pain to bend.
I only removed the heat shield to get access.
That's all I can remember.
Difficulty=5/10
Broken Hands=8/10
Want to do it again=0/10

My elbow is metal and I just pried it back with a screwdriver.