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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3
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I just purchased a 1996 (2.0liter) contour for my mom. It has only 60,000 miles, never wrecked and thought I got a great deal at $3500. It was purchase form a 70 year old lady. Really!, that drove it rarely. Still smells new.
Anyway, It has some minor problems, that I'd like to know if are common and what the fixes are.
-The AC cools and the fan runs, but the air only seeps from the vents.
-The horn nor cruise control work. I tried changing the fuse for the horn to no avail. Also the hazard lights are on the same circuit as the horn and they work fine.
-The fuel door release (inside the car) doesn't work, but the release in the trunk does. Is this cable activated or electrical?
-The rear of the car seems to bounce when I hit bumps in the road. I'm figuring the shocks are toast. Unless you guys know something else.
I'm going to get a repair manual, but found this site and figured you guys would know.
Anymore problems I should be prepared for?
Thanks in advance, guys/gals.
Mike
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,725
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,725 |
Originally posted by grn92conv:
I
-The AC cools and the fan runs, but the air only seeps from the vents.
-The horn nor cruise control work. I tried changing the fuse for the horn to no avail. Also the hazard lights are on the same circuit as the horn and they work fine.
-The fuel door release (inside the car) doesn't work, but the release in the trunk does. Is this cable activated or electrical?
-The rear of the car seems to bounce when I hit bumps in the road. I'm figuring the shocks are toast. Unless you guys know something else.
With #1 does it not only work on high or not work at all out of the vents. Mine wouldnt turn to 1 and 2, worked on 3 and would seep out on 4. It is repalced for free at Ford, under extended warranty program. Since you got less than 150k it applies to you.
I also had the cable problem
"THE FIX, used a 3/8" piece of 1/4" X 3/8" weather strip stuck tothe inside of the door above the latch socket"
I did that and it hasnt gotten stuck since. You need to buy that exact size, I brought a different size by mistake, a bit smaller and it didnt work, so be sure you buy that size.
Hope that helps.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the reply, HitMan. I found the "Common Problems" section right after starting this topic and have already fixed the fuel door and AC. The fuel door was just as you said "needing a little help pushing it opened". The AC wasn't the vac line shown in the illustration in "Common Problems", but rather the little plastic acuator clip popped off. Now for my cruise control and horn issue. I'm wondering if the problem is in the steering wheel wiring? Guess I'll pick up a manual tommorow and find out how to get back there w/o the air bag breaking my nose  Thanks again to Hitman and to the guy that made the "Common Problems" section>
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 246
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 246 |
The cruise control/horn problem does sound like a steering wheel wiring problem. Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes before attempting to remove the airbag, as the air bag system keeps a residual electric charge to deploy the bags even with loss of electricity. 10 minutes will be more then safe. Remove the airbag, and hopefully it will be something as simple as an unhooker connecter in the steering wheel. When I had my Ranger and changed wheels, I beleive there was 1 connecter with all the wires, so it would be great if that solved your problem. Good Luck!
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Joined: May 2004
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,262 |
Originally posted by HITMANinMI:
Originally posted by grn92conv:
I
-The AC cools and the fan runs, but the air only seeps from the vents.
-The horn nor cruise control work. I tried changing the fuse for the horn to no avail. Also the hazard lights are on the same circuit as the horn and they work fine.
-The fuel door release (inside the car) doesn't work, but the release in the trunk does. Is this cable activated or electrical?
-The rear of the car seems to bounce when I hit bumps in the road. I'm figuring the shocks are toast. Unless you guys know something else.
With #1 does it not only work on high or not work at all out of the vents. Mine wouldnt turn to 1 and 2, worked on 3 and would seep out on 4. It is repalced for free at Ford, under extended warranty program. Since you got less than 150k it applies to you.
I also had the cable problem
"THE FIX, used a 3/8" piece of 1/4" X 3/8" weather strip stuck tothe inside of the door above the latch socket"
I did that and it hasnt gotten stuck since. You need to buy that exact size, I brought a different size by mistake, a bit smaller and it didnt work, so be sure you buy that size.
Hope that helps.
can you PM me with a more detailed explanation please? i would liek to know exactly how to do this... 
Regards, Cole.
Relegating to troll status sometime this week.
New Whip: 1990 Lexus ES250.
Old Hotness: 1995 GL MTX Zetec *IN TRIAGE*
"I had a little friend once, but it dont move no more...  "
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 771
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 771 |
For your horn and cruise control problems, check on the 'clock spring'. This is a common problem with some Ford cars, and if it breaks, will disable everything controlled through the steering wheel. Its a thin spiral spring that maintains ground contact for the electrical system when the steering wheel turns.
-Mark-
'99 Mystique LS, totally original (including the original water pump and the premium stereo)! Bought new in December 1998 for $21,000.
208,000 miles
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3
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Got the cruise control and horn fixed! The CC was unplugged for some odd reason, guess I'll find out why it was at some point.
The horn was a bad relay.
Thanks again, guys. Very helpful board, you got here!
Mike
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