Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle Unknown CD4E Problems - Buddhax

Thanks for the update and let us know how it goes.

Current pricing for solenoid pack......from www.bulkparts.com

Code Name Image Price
19392 Solenoid, CD4E assembly 1994 to 1-98 Has a Biege case connector $128.80
19399 Sensor, CD4E turbine speed 1994-up $18.54
19397 SENSOR CD4E MAN LEVER POS. 94- $32.44
19398 SENSOR CD4E OUTPUT SPEED 98-UP $12.66
19392A Solenoid, CD4E assembly 1998 to 5/3- 99 $199.00
19392B Solenoid, CD4E assembly 5/3/ 1999-UP $176.22
19398A SENSOR CD4E SPEED 95L / 2.0L-I4 $37.18
19398B SENSOR CD4E SPEED 95L / 2.5L V6 $37.18

They are high on the part cost.....
For the soloenoid pack the atx does not have to be removed. They just remove the valve cover and unbolt it from the front of the valve body...very simple procedure....should take no more than 2 hours....

This just happened to my car...it seems as though your car is missing the automatic shifts huh? When you hit the gas pettle it seems as though it increasing speed but its holding back at the same time...then all of a sudden it all just hits at one time causeing the car to jerk?

If thats what you're experiencing(which is what I experienced) you'll probably get the same codes as me. I got 4 codes that saids my banks were running both too lean and too rich...All in all I needed the transmission rebuilt.

~darp~

man thats the same crappy problem I have except my transmission only acts up once it gets warm/hot the car will act like it goes into neutral then slam into gear it also constintly upshifted/downshifted fast causeing alot of clunking.....I can travel 5 miles without 1 problem but after that its pretty steady and is very hard to drive like that what I learned is that once you feel the rpms jumping let off the gas and w8t a sec b4 you give it gas I have a 95 ford contour zetec auto as for the part they are replacing anyone have some information on this part and how easy is it to install any help would be apreciated Thanks I have 145 miles on my car it was in a severe accident in 1997 (totaled) then rebuilt salvage is on the title.... 145k miles and tranny i think is stock along with engine plus I drive extremely harsh I'm hitting redline so often also I like the occasional e-braker burners at school (still have caked on rubber all along the side of my car)

Ok thanks for the information. I know they ordered my part from Ford Directly. All I know about the part right now is that it is one thing in a box of things I bet I sound like a dumbass. Anyway they ahd to order an entire box square thing of plugs or something like that.

As for the statment about running lean or rich. That was one of the code's that we got one of the times. As for now I am not sure still ahve not gotten the codes. Will keep trying .

For clrification, My ATX will be running fine. Then out of no where it will act like it just went into neutral. No warning no down shifting no nothing. No high RPM's at start nothing other than jumping into neutral then RPM's rib up really high due to my foot on gas pedal, I let off gas pedal then within a second jumps really hard jerk's car and we go on our way again.

I really hope it fixes it this time cause I only have 8 payments left. Ye haw.

hey...

ive had a similar thread going in duratec maintanence...

you are describing the exact same problem i have been having. i took it to autozone today, and the code came out P0708 transmission range sensor circuit high input.

does anyone know where the TR sensor is? and how hard itd be to replace? am i gonna have to take it to a shop?

thanks

-tk

It is located on top of your tranmission, under the thermostat/water hose. Not hard to replace.



Also, I'd be the last person to tell an officer of the law that he was a dumbass!!!!!

Well they replaced the pack sylonoids. Now they are going to replace a O2 sensor int he engine becuase it is running Lean. They said that was why the check engine light is on. They had to drop my ATX Pan to replace the pack. I know this becuase they had to replace the gasket fromt eh pan.

Anyway I still don't have my car back becuase the shop tech is going to drive it for a day to see if it has fixed the problem. He is driving it with a scannr hooked to it. Never heard of that before but hope it works.

You could also try to shift it from 1 - 2 and see if it shifts fine.
The Manual 1 and 2 will override the Solenoids.
If it holds each gear, at least you know that the hydraulics and mechanics are working,
and that the problem is only electronic.
If it still drops the gear while in 1 or 2 then it could be that your tranny is due for a complete rebuild.

Well bad news for me good news for shop. It did not fix the problem. Broke down again on Thursday. It seems to be doing it harder now I told them to fix the problem and take as long as they need. I instructed them to not order anything or fix anything until they talk to me first. I am sure this car is beginning to piss them off but hey its all I have.

Talking to the tech he has no idea what it may be. I tol dhim again about the crank sylinoid thing you guys tol dme about.

Oh as I drove the car over to the shop on Friday morning the OD light started flashing again so maybe he willbe able to get the code again.

We will see and I will let you know.

As for the manuel shift I tried that and it worked fine. From 1st to second and over reb'ed the car and everything and it runs fine. I think the engine runs better now as they have replaced on O2 sensore last time as well. I also at 75 85 MPH pressed the OD button. It jumps in and out of OD fine. I don't plan on doing that again at that speed but it is working. The only problem still is it jumps into nuetral then right back into dive again.

Keep the fix's coming.