Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle Unknown CD4E Problems - Buddhax

Originally posted by "Buddhax"


Well I really don't know where to start.

I have a 98 Contour 2.5 6Cyl. I have had for about six months now a check engine light on. About the same time frame I started having this problem. Please be nice as I am trying to tell you what I am feeling when it happens.

While driving down the road at diferent speeds it will act like it jumped into nuetral. The RPM's will jump up until I let off of the gas pedal. When I let off of the gas pedal it seems to jump into a really low gear becuase the car jerks very hard and starts going again. It does not do it all of the time but when it does it I feels like I will blow my engine. There is no set time or place or event that this happens.

Last night my wife calls me and tells me that the O/D light is flashing as soon as she started the car and left work. At city travel the car could not go faster than 30 MPH. It would do the "shifting thing" over and over again. So i assume it was at low and high speeds of up to 50MPH. Had to have it towed to a shop.

Again does not do this all of the time. And again will seem to go into neutral then back into gear really hard.

I am not a mechanic in anyway. I read this intire tranaxile fourm and decided that this thread best explains or seems to resemble my problem. Everyone at this point is telling to get new ATX. That cost to me in AZ is about 2 grand. Talked with uncle who owns B an B trans in Colorado and he says without code he can't help but sounds like I think he said a Inner SPrag or something elect. Of course in his defence he is a state away and only has what I am telling without codes.

After reading this forum I called the shop and advised them to tell me exactly what code pops up when they get a chance. It has been to the same shop now six times for same problem. It never does the shifting thing for the tech working on it. It has left me and my family on the side of the road four times from this problem. I would like to know what all of you think I should do to get this fixed. I will do what it takes at this point. I have eight payments left on the car. I cannot aford a new car at this time cause I am a low paid cop. Will check back on this forum every hour to get a responce.

Thank you in advance for your help.

I had the same exact problem about 2 years ago in my 'Tique. I was getting a code from the EEC-IV that my torque converter was slipping. and the fluid was starting to burn a little. I drained the fluid and replaced it with cheapo wal-mart Dec/Mec III. Cleared the codes,ran it for a while, it ran fine, then it cam back big time slamming in and out of gears. Changed the fluid again (added a bottle of Slick 50 high milliage tranny additive, don't flame me, it worked) and it has been running pretty good ever sense. No more codes, and no more dropping out of gear at highway speed.

The only problem I still have is that from a stop it takes a little bit for the tranny to kick into gear, and when it is really hot out, the engine tends to die if not in neutral at stop lights. The car is not worth a new tranny so I will nurse it to the grave.

How many miles on your car? Does this usually occur after you drive the care for awhile? Does it happen at approximtely same time or location? When is the last time you changed fluid? Draining and refilling atx is a good idea - just don't do a power flush! If your o/d light was flashing you should have some codes stored.

Regards,
Bob

You should find out what the check engine light code is as well as the ATX code. Knowing this could help.

Jumping into what feels like neutral is most always a fatal condition; the number one cause is low fluid level or a week pump. It could also be a simple as a bad range sensor switch and that will generally set a code.

jeff

Ok to clear it upa little.

There is no set time date or condition that it does the nuetral thing.

I have had it to a shop at least six times for this problem. First time they said was a chip or something and they replaced it. But that never fixed the problem.

More on the problem. Sometimes it will do ti once. Also sometimes it will do it over and over again. The only thing in common is the vehicle is being driven. It does not do this at stop signs and does not do it at intersections.

The vehicle will be moving forward at a speed of greater than say 25 to 30. It does it at 75 MPH on the freeway and at 30 MPH in city travel.

It did it to me several times within five minutes of starting the car for the first time and it has done it after a 3 hours drive.

I talked with the mechanics yesterday and for some reason they do not want to give me the codes that read. I think the tech may feel chalenged or something and that is not what I am trying to do. I explained that my uncle would like the codes and that seem to set the tech off. But I did hear him says something to the affect of it could be mixture to think. I have no idea what that means but he did say something about a sensor.

Serious question. Does the check engine light have anything to do with the ATX. Cause I just read something that says it has nothing to do with a the tranny.

The cars computer monitors well over 100 diagnostic points for your engine, transmission and other equipment. The CEL trouble code(s) should be stored in the computer for an amount of time, and is retrievable even though the light may not be on at the particular time.
After you get the CEL light, take it to Autozone where they will give you the particular code number(s) that is displayed or stored, as well as a brief description of the problem (i.e., "insufficient EGR flow"). You can also check the internet for further info. I may be able to supply you with the list of codes also.
It sounds like an electronic problem to me. I had some trouble similar to this once when I degreased the engine. I got water all over the connectors and devices on the outside of the tranny and it acted funny until the water dried. I'm not saying this is your problem, of course, but it illustrates the effects of electrical type issues.
A fluid change should not hurt anything. It's wise to do the drain/fill/drain/refill procedure about every 15 to 20K miles, or less.
I use Mobil 1 ATF in mine with some Lubeguard additive, which is very good from what I've heard.
Mechanical problems, however, are a whole different ballgame.

If he does not want to give you the codes, stay away from them. Keeping you in the dark is not an option. I'd go to autozone and have them get the codes. If you supply us the codes, we can begin to offer suggestions..........and I can look up some references for you.


Bob

Well I got my answer yesterday.

They ordered an EPC Syloniod. Cost to me right now is about 350.00 for parts nto labor I am sure that iwll be much more. Not sure what that is but that is what they are replacing.

Just for clarification with the code thing I have respect for the tech and company and they are the only one's I trust with my vehicle.

I metioned before that they replaced something. What I was told was a Range Selector. I think that is the shift position thing. That did not fix the problem. So I hope this replacement part will fix the problem.

I will find out Friday or early next week if it fixed the problem. God I hope so, Pray for me