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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 171
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 171 |
Hello, I did a search but didnt find exactly what I was wanting to know. I just bought a 98.5 CSVT w only 58k miles on it. Car is in excellent shape runs / drives great, BUT I have no service records for the car.
What maintenance should be done (water pump, fluids changes, etc)?
TIA.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,044
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,044 |
If the WP hasn't been replaced, now is the time to change it. The plugs, wires and all fluids should also be replaced including a flush of the brake fluid. Air and fuel filters could be due for a change. If you hear any suspension clunks or squeaks, you may be due for some bushings. I would assume that the brake pads have already been done at least once, but you may want to inspect them to be sure of their condition. Wheel bearings could start making noise, but they are usually good for another 20K or so...
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 123
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 123 |
'00 CSVT silver frost
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
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You are aproaching 60,000 miles.
Here is what I would do for the 60K service.
Oil and oil filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Cooling system flush
Manual trans fluid change (do a little research on this, there are several good options)
Brake fluid flush, including clutch hydraulic fluid
Cabin filter?
Decarbon engine, clean throttle body, add injector cleaner to fuel tank
Check condition of power steering fluid and possibly change fluid
Test battery and clean battery terminals
If it still has the original water pump, it would be a good idea to change it now before the impeller comes apart.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by Big Jim:
If it still has the original water pump, it would be a good idea to change it now before the impeller comes apart.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149 |
Hey guys what about the belt?  I'd sure as heck be making sure there was a new belt before f-ing with the plugs and wires.
-- 1999 SVT #220 --
In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 171
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 171 |
Originally posted by Big Jim:
You are aproaching 60,000 miles.
Here is what I would do for the 60K service.
Oil and oil filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Cooling system flush
Manual trans fluid change (do a little research on this, there are several good options)
Brake fluid flush, including clutch hydraulic fluid
Cabin filter?
Decarbon engine, clean throttle body, add injector cleaner to fuel tank
Check condition of power steering fluid and possibly change fluid
Test battery and clean battery terminals
If it still has the original water pump, it would be a good idea to change it now before the impeller comes apart.
Are there FAQ's on how to change all the parts (fuel filter, PCV, etc)? I had all that on my list plus adding .5 quart extra oil, revised oil pan, DMD, serpentine belt, water pump belt (is this seperate?). I suppose from reading some [posts that I should be cleaning the intakes as well. Geez, Im going to spend half what I paid for the car just in maintenance items (OK, not really)!
Anyone have a time aproximation per job? Best place to get parts (cheapest)?
A few dumb questions, how do you change PS fluid, just pop off a line to drain it? Same for the hydralic clutch resovoir? How to "decarbon" the engine? Clean the throttle body, just spray it down with cleaner while still on the car?
Man with all the quirks and maintenance these cars require, I think my next one will be a Porsche or Ferrari, since their about on par maintenance wise!
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by lightngsvt:
Man with all the quirks and maintenance these cars require, I think my next one will be a Porsche or Ferrari, since their about on par maintenance wise!
Good call!
Just kidding!
Vast majority of the stuff suggested is simple DIY maintenance. There are How-tos for you in the FAQ & common problems sections - including changing the plugs. Lotsa little tricks to make things simple & easy.
Here's one of my favorites: TB cleaning
The water pump belt is a small one on the driver side of the engine. The serpentine belt is on the opposite side - typical, except you have to use a kinda low profile rachet with an extension to work the tensioner.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
Originally posted by lightngsvt:
Originally posted by Big Jim:
You are aproaching 60,000 miles.
Here is what I would do for the 60K service.
Oil and oil filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Cooling system flush
Manual trans fluid change (do a little research on this, there are several good options)
Brake fluid flush, including clutch hydraulic fluid
Cabin filter?
Decarbon engine, clean throttle body, add injector cleaner to fuel tank
Check condition of power steering fluid and possibly change fluid
Test battery and clean battery terminals
If it still has the original water pump, it would be a good idea to change it now before the impeller comes apart.
Are there FAQ's on how to change all the parts (fuel filter, PCV, etc)? I had all that on my list plus adding .5 quart extra oil, revised oil pan, DMD, serpentine belt, water pump belt (is this seperate?). I suppose from reading some [posts that I should be cleaning the intakes as well. Geez, Im going to spend half what I paid for the car just in maintenance items (OK, not really)!
Anyone have a time aproximation per job? Best place to get parts (cheapest)?
A few dumb questions, how do you change PS fluid, just pop off a line to drain it? Same for the hydralic clutch resovoir? How to "decarbon" the engine? Clean the throttle body, just spray it down with cleaner while still on the car?
Man with all the quirks and maintenance these cars require, I think my next one will be a Porsche or Ferrari, since their about on par maintenance wise!
There is more than one way to accomplish most any task including these maintenance items. Yes, there are FAQ's for much of this.
You can remove the power steering return line at the resivoir and direct the flow into a bucket (with an extension hose of some sort) and add fluid as the old fluid is pumped out with the engine running. Have an assistant inside to whut off the engine when you are done and to turn the steering wheel during the flushing. Ford calls for using Mercon spec transmission fluid. I have used Mobil 1 ATF (which meets Mercon spec) and I have also use Valvoline synpower. No matter how hard you try, this is messy.
An easier answer is to suck as much fluid as you can out of the resivoir and refill with your favorite fluid, repeat in a few days or a week or two and keep repeating until you have run about 2 or 3 quarts through the system. You can use a turkey baster to suck the fluid or if you have it a Mityvac brake bleeding kit.
Yes, you can clean the throttle body without removing it from the engine. I like to use an old toothbrush with spray throttle body cleaner. I have written instructions on this that have been posted many times. Pay special attention to the black carbon ring that builds up just inside the throttle plate. I think there is no need to remove it. I have done it both ways.
An engine decarbon will clean the intake manifold very well. I have written instructions on this as well. Basically it involves feeding cleaner into the intake manifold through vacuum lines. Berry B12 in the pourable can seems to work very well although most any high quality injector cleaner should work well.
The clutch hydraulics share the same resivoir with the brakes on the top of the master cylinder. The slave cylinder bleed port is on top of the bell housing. It would help, at least the first time, to remove the air intake tube for access.
I would suggest that you get a Haynes manual for Contours. For about $15.00 you will get an easy to read reasonably comprehensive manual. It is interesting that Haynes mixed some of it's information with the Mondeo but even with that it is still a very worthwhile book.
Also I would suggest you consider the Ford shop manual on CD. I have seen them in the classified for about $10.00.
Of the two, the Ford manual is far more complete, but the Haynes is written with the DIY person in mind.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,639
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,639 |
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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