Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Electrical issue...need assistance please!!!

Ok heres my problem. I did do a search and i came up with some very intresting answers to my problem. But i wanted to get some outside opinions and anwsers from other people.


Breif History:
1999 Svt Contour. Just completed 3 liter/SVT hybrid swap.

Problem:
Battery light is on, Volt meter droped to 10 volts(and slowly droping). This problem did not start till a week after the swap, 3 days after i had new battery cables installed.

Main Cause:
When installing the 3 liter, NorcalCoug and my friend Elliot and i did not route the positive battery cable correctly. In stead of going between the Block and the EGR valve pipe, we routed it on the outside of the EGR pipe.

This caused the battery cable shroud to melt and casue the Actual wire to come in contact with the Metal on the EGR. It shorted the battery cable and casued a small fire (easy put out with my mechanix glove.) Well we wraped the damaged part in a heater hose till we got the cable fixed this pass friday, by having a new one installed. I had it installed by a very respected Shop in my area that has a lot of experience with contours and cougars.

Well tonight, my volt meter droped to 10 volts and was droping slowly. Battery light was not flickering, it was on!!! It would only turn off or flicker if my foot was off the gas. At idle the light would stay on, or at acceleration it would stay on.

Question:
I have researched the archives and i believe its the alternator. The current alternator in my car has 118000 miles on it.
But what i wanted to ask you folks, is if i should check the fuses for the alternator too or just change the alternator and call it a day?

I have read many of the answers in the forums, but have yet to read an answer that is related to the WAY my problem was caused.

I respect everyone here and would appreciate your input.


Lupe

Have you checked the voltage with the engine on and off, from the alternator and the battery? Is the battery original as well?
Sean

I apologize.....I just realized i should have posted this in Trouble Shooting.


But to answer your question, no the battery is less than 6 months old. I could not afford a Optima battery so i went with MotorCraft (pearks of dealer discount).


So the battery is fairly new.

I have not checked the voltage when the car is off. It started tonight around 8pm....just after all the local Auto Part stores close in my area (atleast the ones that do free battery and alternator testing). Im planning to get it tested tomorrow after work.


Lupe

Since you said the voltage is 10V and dropping, I suspect the alternator (specifically the regulator) since the battery light goes off when you accelerate. If the voltage is below 12.5v, it's most likely the charging system (alternator, regulator). If that is the case, if you can, check the voltage directly from the alternator while the engine is running. If it's around 13v, your alternator is fine, if not, it's bad. This has been one fault in all of the Ford's I've owned. Hopefully that is all it is, and nothing else. One more thing, check the positive cables running from the alternator to the starter, and the starter to the battery. Your problem may also lie somewhere in there. Good luck!
Sean

From the description so far, I would agree that it sounds like a fried regulator in the alternator. A charging system test at your freindly AZ or similar should help verify this.

I agree with the last set of replies as well...I went through FOUR alternators in a week!!! (AutoZone/Oreilly's).
Some Word Of Advice is to buy a brand new alt. from Ford since you get the dealer hook up....99.99 percent sure that one of the brushes in the regulator has broken or been sheared off...Not A big deal But Get it fixed soon and dont drive her unless you have to..(youll lose the battery as well)

See, i would buy one form ford...but this is one of the few things i don;t want to. I know a lot of cougar guys with problems with them going out fast....and i don;t want that to happen to me...(its only with the new 2000 and up Alternators.)


Any suggestions on where or who i can go to for a cheap alternator....Kragens and Autozone want almost 200 bucks, not including core charge. I thought it would be cheaper.


Lupe

I found one on eBay. Just look up ford contour/mercury cougar alternator. Last time I looked, it was like $25. Only problem is it isn't guaranteed without any warranty. You may just want to take a look at the regulator assembly itself. Your problem should be somewhere in there since you said when you accelerate your battery light goes off. If the voltage is progressive (meaning it gets higher as the revs increase), your alternator is fine and just the regulator has gone bad. Sorry if I'm repeating myself. I typed that other stuff when I woke up this morning!
Sean

There is a mega fuse in line between the alternator and the battery. If this wire was shorted to ground, you have most certainly blown that fuse. With a little luck, the fuse went before the alternator or voltage regulator was damaged.

If you do a search you should find the info about the fuse. Someone even posted a part number. It is available seperately even though the Ford catalog shows that you must buy the entire wire.

If you can get a voltmeter or test light down to the B+ terminal (the biggest wire) on the alternator you should have battery voltage. If you have no voltage there is a problem with the wiring between the battery and the alternator, probably a blown fuse. It is a very big fuse. Remember that you have a 130 amp alternator.