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Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
Sounds like what mine did a few years back - it was the brown relay that powers the fuel system and ignition unit. It would flake out, sometimes the car would quit and wouldn't restart. It restarted later. Stupid dealer never could fix it. I found the bad relay when it died in my driveway. Low voltage on the ignition and fuel circuits. Swapped the relay with the horn relay and it ran fine since then. Replaced the horn relay later since I don't have photon torpedos... 
Ooh, if I had my choice of possible problems that people have suggested, I'd take this one in a heartbeat
Next time it dies, I'll try swapping out the relay and see what happens.
Thanks!
--afn
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Originally posted by PeruvianHighlander:
afn,
unfortunately, my car finally died at 130K. The problem began around 110K. When it happened, I called Ford and they told me that it HAD already been replaced. They only provide a 60-day (or something along those lines) warranty on the extended warranty repair! I really hope I am wrong, but I do think this is the issue with your vehicle. The estimates I got on the repair were $1200-$1500.
Bah-- just called the dealership where the previous owner had the car serviced, and only recall work he's had done is 00S44 (engine cooling fan).
Where exactly is this wiring harness located-- is it easy for me to just visually inspect it?
Thanks,
--afn
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Crap. It did it again today, while I was driving down to visit my friend in Charlottesville, VA. Drove about 400 miles with no problem, then all of a sudden it died. (This was the first time it had ever done this while going at highway speeds.)
Anyway, this time I tried swapping out both the fuel pump relay and fuel pump fuse; no luck. After about 15 minutes, it started up fine and I drove off-- only to have it die 10 miles later. I got fed up and had it towed to a shop in Charlottesville-- I'm gonna have them take a look tomorrow and see if they can come up with anything.
Grrrr. At least I've succeeded in trying, and eliminating, one possibility.
--afn
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 770
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Carry a volt meter with you. Discovered my problem when the car died in my driveway and stayed dead long enough to troubleshoot. The 95 has an ignition module next to the power steering reservoir. One of the pins is 12v when running; mine had 4v when it died. This was enough to run the ignition (suprisenly) but not enough for the fuel pump. The fuel pump is next thing to check for power, or maybe it's cratering. The wiring harness recall will replace ALL the underhood wiring except for the high voltage leads. Many of the wires run inside the vehicle. After it is done, you will spend a few days putting all the stuff back the dealer left out or off. Had both of my Contours done so I know this all too well. 
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I had this happen a couple different times, and there were 2 different issues.
1st on, was clogged cats.
2nd was a bad crankshat position sensor.
Check those.
1995 Contour LX
238,000 miles
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Originally posted by afn:
Crap. It did it again today, while I was driving down to visit my friend in Charlottesville, VA. Drove about 400 miles with no problem, then all of a sudden it died. (This was the first time it had ever done this while going at highway speeds.)
Anyway, this time I tried swapping out both the fuel pump relay and fuel pump fuse; no luck. After about 15 minutes, it started up fine and I drove off-- only to have it die 10 miles later. I got fed up and had it towed to a shop in Charlottesville-- I'm gonna have them take a look tomorrow and see if they can come up with anything.
Grrrr. At least I've succeeded in trying, and eliminating, one possibility.
--afn
Well, that was a waste of money. The engine was showing a code 211 (Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing); the mechanic in Charlottesville replaced my ignition module. Car died, twice, on the 500-mile drive home.
I think I'm going to take it to my local stealership next week and see if they can at least diagnose the problem... I'm just afraid that the words "wiring harness" will come up in their diagnosis 
--afn
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Originally posted by Contourgirl:
I had this happen a couple different times, and there were 2 different issues.
1st on, was clogged cats.
2nd was a bad crankshat position sensor.
Check those.
Would a bad CPS cause a code 211 (Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing)?
Is it easy to test the CPS on the side of the road (like the next time the car dies)?
Thanks,
--afn
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Originally posted by Rogerm60:
Such a symptom is almost always electrical.
If it were a hot engine only problem, I would suspect the Cam Position Sensor.
Corrosion in the wiring to the ignition is often found in the wiring from the battery to the AUX power box behind it. Best to take the battery out, unbolt the box, and look under it.
What's the AUX power box? There's a distribution box next to the battery, is that what you're referring to? Took the battery out, didn't see any other boxes next to/under it.
Thanks,
--afn
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Yes, the connections under this box and around the battery in general corrode from road splash and battery acid.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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