Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Question: Engine overheating

Just yesterday I got my car back from the shop. Its front driver side wheel bearing had to be replaced.

My car is a 1995 mystique, Duratec MTX, the Young America edition.
It has about 115k miles on it and runs great. As you can see from my post topic, my problem is not with the wheel bearings (which work beautifully now)... but the engine overheated tonight. (actually, it didn't overheat till right when I shut it off, but it was close)

The last month or so, the coolant light would come on occasionally, but then go away. I checked the levels and the coolant is between min/max in the resevoir. (did this a while ago, and kept checking it to make sure)

The symptoms: It worked fine, then just stopped cooling.
The temperature gage works correctly.
The heater blows cold air.
The cooling fans do NOT work.
It doesn't appear that the cooling fan fuse has blown (in the fusebox).
I have had the recall done on the fan (where they installed the breaker bypass or whatever, if the fan siezes, to prevent engine fire.)

My first question, is it possible that during the repair/replacement of my wheel bearings that the mechanics disconnected the cooling fans out of safety reasons, and then reconnected it poorly? (i've heard of cooling fans being dangerous, coming on when engine off)

It just seems weird that I've had this car for 4 years and never had a problem... (it didn't even moose this winter) and now the engine overheats the day after I take it into the shop for something else.

any help/suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.

-russ

if i'm not mistaken i think this sounds like the water pump. the impeller is of poor design. the suggested fix is a new water pump with a metal impeller. not hard to do, just irritating. check the: faq-common probs and complaints-engine-1st listing.

Yep, your water pump went south on you. As pointed out, likely a busted impeller.

When you get it replaced, keep your coolant level 1/2" above the MAX line to keep the sensitive level sensor happy.

Steve

Agreed, waterpump. Easy DIY.

Also, keep the coolant line 1 inch above max and you'll be fine.

Sir, I fear your waterpump has gone off to join mine in the Great Waterpump Beyond.

To avoid potential engine damage, do not drive the car anymore until the waterpump is fixed. If you aren't going to fix it yourself, remember that tow trucks are your friends. I've heard too many stories about Duratec engines that died young because they were driven with bad waterpumps and the excessive heat damaged them beyond repair.

About your coolant light.....that sensor is totally hypersensitive. For a while mine would come on if I was parked on an incline, even a very slight one. Your best bet is to keep the level a little above the max line. Oh yeah, and don't forget to dilute coolant before you pour it in.

The best luck to you man. Keep us posted.

Ok, I went to the local Autozone and they had the waterpump in stock for 65 dollars. Sounds reasonable. Also, my manager's husband has a lot of car tools and I could borrow them for an evening. What specific things will i need to do this job? I think i'll go to the library and pick up the Hayes manual. When i pull the pump, will all the coolant dump out?

-russ

thanks