That has happened to me twice, and you should be able to get a used engine istalled for under $1500. If you're feeling adventerous, go with a 3L swap while you're at it. Talk to warmonger about an affordable way to do that.
I looked at the Hayes Manual and it stated that I needed an engine brace to remove the oil pan from the car and that it wasn't recommended to do so without it.
At any rate, I didn't mess with doing that tonight.
HOwever, I did dran the oil and found little tiny reminents of what looked to be copperish in color. Along with a few tiny pieces there were very tiny specs of gold or copper stuff in the oil which drained out of the oil filter. I'm guessin theseare pieces of the bearings.
I also put heavier oil in the car and it seemed to get rid of the ticking/knockng sound at lower rpms...when I reach 4k or above rpms I heard what sounded to be a Rattling sound. I took it for a very very quick ride around the block and I noticed a significant power loss (only drove in 1st gear) at higher rpms. So I didn't go any further and parked it back in the driveway.
Not sure what the next step is...perhaps removing the oil pan and taking a look.
HOw much would someone charge to diagnose the problem? I just want to be abosolutly certain I"m not having some other issue!
Anyways....I'm going to go take alook at an S4 tomorrow...something good might come out of this after all. Just kidding....wish this didn't happen because I loved the car and better yet I didnt' have a car payment!
Quote: HOw much would someone charge to diagnose the problem? I just want to be abosolutly certain I"m not having some other issue!
From what you have said, especially the metal shavings in your oil, you can be certain that you have blown a main bearing. The only way to make 100% certain would be to drop the oil pan and inspect. I would estimate a shop would charge about $200-300 to do that.
I wouldn't guess main bearings as I've seen and heard of very few of those geeting spun. Your best bet is the rod bearing going. Whatever you do, don't keep starting and driving the car! You've all ready done damage to the motor, now you're just adding to the damage by spreading metal particulates further throughout the engine. The Hayes manual is a good starting point for basics at best. You can drop the pan simply by throwing the car up on jack stands on the front and removing the bolts the go around the perimeter of the pan and then there are two the connect to the transmission bellhousing. If it takes a shop more than an hour, you're at the wrong shop. Drop me a PM and I can walk you through it on the phone if you need.
Thanks, Rick
Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
Buckshot77@msn.com
Misc 3L parts for sale
Argh, I meant to say rod bearings, not main bearings. Sorry about that!
I just had my engine replaced for the same problem, fortunately covered by the extended warranty. They told me it woudl be about $250 to drop the pan and inspect the bearings.