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#898092 03/12/04 01:18 PM
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In my 1998 SE (105Kmiles) I just noticed a clicking noise coming from the engine. It does not appear to be comeing from the pulleys/belts. I thought my acceleration may be a little sluggish prior to this. The clicking is a constant sound, as though it's occuring through the whole revolution and not just once per.

The CEL is also on.

My friend listened and said he wouldn't really be able to tell whether it was normal or not. So it could be nothing. I'm going to take it in for a tune up soon and I'll get the light checked out then.

I'm just curious if anyone has had this kind of noise before.


PS -- this is what that part of the alphabet would look like without Q and R.
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Got oil?

What engine?

My car has ~125k on the duratec, and there's "clicking" from several exhaust leaks and quite a bit more valve noise than when I got it (though still not a crazy amount). The other thing I suspect may be making noise on my car is the timing chains/tensioners.

Definitaly check your oil and coolant, and keep tabs on the noise.


don't drink and drive.
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It's the Duratec.

Funny you should mention the oil. It's there, but it's not the right thickness. I didn't think that would matter much. I asked around when I realized it was the wrong one (I was under the assumption that I needed 5w20 as opposed to 5w30) and those who I asked said it shouldn't matter too much.



PS -- this is what that part of the alphabet would look like without Q and R.
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You'll we'll find that the majority of gurus, car buffs and those who want longevity for a motor thinks the 5w-20 is a joke.
But then the topic of motor oil elicits more than it's share of comments, opinions right or wrong, rumors, mis-conceptions and marketing hype.
I won't even talk about dino vs synthetic. Change it regularly because of the crud build-up!

Paul


Paul 98 Mystique LS 2ea (07/97)(08/98)
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Two separate issues. Address them separately.

First, as always, get the CEL read. Autozone if in the US and not in California will do it free. Same for Advance Auto Parts and probably more. Post the codes here before buying any parts or having any work done.

Two, identify the source of the noise. Get a mechanic's stethoscope for $10 and pinpoint the SOURCE of the noise. It is impossible for anyone here to do more than guess what is causing your engine's noise since none of it can hear it. Guesses will only waste your time (and ours). Keep in mind that the fuel injectors do make a ticking noise that is normal.

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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I'm thinking it's a plug wire. The code would be a misfire, or a cat below efficiency limit because of the misfire. This would also explain his feeling that the car is a bit sluggish.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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The CEL went out on its own. I'm not sure what that means. I'm sure it will be back soon. It got cold all of a sudden yesterday and that could be why. The check coolant light has been doing that as well for last month or so.

I am still due for a tune up and am hoping to get that done in about a month.

I'll be in at autozone today to get that light checked out. I'm also going to change the oil to the proper thickness. (10W30). I had 10W20 in there before. Not sure if it matters that much. . .


PS -- this is what that part of the alphabet would look like without Q and R.
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the fix for the check coolant light is easy: just fill to the top mark and then put a little more in, like an extra cup of antifreeze.. the sensor is just very sensative....
it does not affect anything, just a reminder to add some coolant.....most cars dont have any sensor in them so you have an added bonus.. nothing to get alarmed about.....


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