Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio Removing yellow door foam???

I have Pioneer 3 and 2 ways (front and rear) and I got a lot of rattles/noises from the doors (just the stock HU), which pissed me off because I taped down all the loose wires/plastic I could find when I did the install. I got the foam baffles with them, but they were too deep and interfered with the window operation. I took them out and found one of them ripped from the window opening on it! Crutchfield credited me for the baffles after I called to complain.

Anyhow, last week it was finally warm enough to find the rattles and what I found was that the yellow door foam liner-thing was the cause, in every door. I tried to peel it off in one piece and figure out a way to secure it, but I ripped all of them to the point they're unusable.

I eventually hope to upgrade the system further, but I was curious if you folks with high end systems rip that stuff out or what? It kinda sealed up the door and now the bass is weaker for not having it. I know people are big on Dynamat, but do you try to seal up the door with that stuff like the yellow foam did? Any suggestions until I can manage to Dynamat the whole thing?

Any help is appreciated.


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Eric Walton
'00 Silver Frost SVT
522 of 2150
Poolesville, MD
BAT intake pipe, KKM, Richbrook shift knob, Pioneer 6x8's, ES motor mount inserts and rear bar bushings, Lighted SVT mod, Fog lamp mod, A6 sidemarkers, Mesh grille

I don't really have an alternative for the yellow foam, but Mcmaster Carr and Parts Express both have a much cheaper version of dynamat. it's about 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of the brand name stuff and every bit as effective.

So would I use the Dynamat alternative in place of the yellow foam, leave things the way they are, or...?

Is Dynamat adhesive backed? Would I just stick it over all of the openings in the door panel to increase the bass response of the 6x8's? I've never seen Dyanamat except in pictures and I have no idea how it gets installed. Forgive my ignorance.

Dynamat is a ashphalt based adhesive backed product. Very easy to install if you have a heat gun. It's about 3/32 of an inch think and pretty pliable. I suppose you could use it inplace of the foam. Sealing any holes in the door will improve the bass response. Sealing the panel is not important for the most part.

careful that Mcmaster (fake dynomat) stuff is heavy and I would suggest screwin it into place on the door frame because the adhesive on the back of it wont stick and when it gets hot out it will fall down and possibly interfere with something, plus it stinks!!!!!!!!!!

Strange, I used about 150 square feet of the McMaster stuff and about 100 square feet of dynamat original on various installations. Never had any any problems with the adhesive as you mentioned. I'm fairly convinced that it is the same stuff. If you do a nose to nose comparison, they smell just about the same. The McMaster stuff might be slightly stronger but that smell won't permeate the interior.

Ok, this is a situation I'm dealing with currently. I'm removing the foam from all doors, then using dynamat xtreme to replace it. The holes in the doors do not allow the front and the back of the speakers to be completely isolated from eachother. For bass response purposes this is bad. The sound waves from the fromt and back of the speaker are oposites, and if they are allowed to reach eachother, they'll cancel eachother out. Also, the foam stuff does very little to combat road noise.

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Nick,
'99 Contour, Zetec, ATX (ugh), Light Blue:
Sidemarkers, clear corners, badgeless, custom mesh grille, interior neon lights, CEG stickers, ventvisors, Radar Detector, KKM, no rez, Straight pipe muffler, Focussport wires, Accel super EDIS coil, more to come, No back seat, Lots of Dynamat, Panasonic CQ-DF800U, Kicker equipment: 2 ZR 360's, 1 ZX460, 1 ZR240, 2 Solobaric L7 12's, 1 resolution 6.5" component set, 1 pair of impulse 5x7's; All wiring by Phoenix Gold; DEI Python 1000 ESP Alarm

How do you plan on sealing the holes?

I just covered them with dynamat which helped but is far from ideal. When I install the 7" midbass in my door, my plan is to put some 1/8" aluminum plated in each of the holes and attach them with some mortite caulk and they dynamat over that? Of course, not all of the holes could be filled, but the more that are the better.

On mcmaster carr, what is the dynomat stuff called? Nothing I can find mentions anything that's adhesive backed.

9709T18 is the part number.