Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio stock speaker wiring...upgrade?

I'm preparing to gut the entire stock stereo in my 99SE. Have a high end Panasonic HU, 2 sets of Polk Audio 6x9's, 4-channel JVC amp (4x60), and a JBL 8" powered sub. Now for my question: how much sound quality would I really lose if I used the stock speaker wiring...5%, 10% 30%? I intend on running a heavy gauge power wire for the amp (hoping to place it somewhere behind the glove box)...but dread having to do the same for the speakers. I'm considering just running RCA's from the deck to the amp. Then running 12 or 14 gauge wires from the speaker outs on the amp into the factory speaker harness using one of the factory harness adapter kits that allow you to plug right into the stock harness. I know that installing heaver gauge aftermarket wire (like monster cable) gives you better sound...but it is easier said than done. Has anyone used the stock wiring with a 4x60 amp...and what are your thoughts. Were you completely dissapointed with the sound quality? Some people say that the bass and mids will suffer the most. I don't plan on entering any stereo competitions, I just want a stereo that sounds as good as the one in my 1992 Explorer w/the Ford/JBL Premium Sound system.

i am shuddering and whimpering at the memory of when i replaced my stock speaker wire with 12 guage wire.. uhhhhhhhh.... unless youre going to lose a lot of SQ, don't do it... unless you like that kinda stuff... maybe on a warm day it wouldnt be so bad.. i did it in the dead of winter

I absolutely hate wiring up car stereos... but I find myself doing it again and again. Not in the same car though. I would have it done professionally but unless you pay an arm and a leg...they will do a total hack job! There is only one thing I hate more than wiring car stereos...and that is wiring car alarms!!

I replaced my door speaker wiring with 16 guage and don't really feel it made much of an improvement (and it was a ***** to do). The factory wiring is good enough for 40-60 watts. Better to spend time and money on a sub set-up for low end response, and use the doors for highs.

------------------
96LX/ATX/A4 repeaters/SVT exhaust/KKM/E1 suspension/SE rockers/BAT swaybar/urethane bushings/Kenwood 7 speaker syst./E1 SVT brakes/9005 lowbeams/885 fogs/50% tint/Michelin XM+S 130's
Soon: E0 rims/ 215/50YR16 gForce's and that's all....
Next:'87 Renault GTA Convertible for auto crossing!

I have heard the difference between stock wiring and replacing it with a thinker guage, and I would do it any day of the week.
My friend and I did a test in his car. He was already determined to change the wire, so we did one side at a time to compare. We actually had to tune the balance 2 notches to the other side to center the sound stage!!!!
Stock speaker wire just doesn't cut it.

The speaker wire in my 99 svt looks like 18 guage. That's not bad. Some cars have lots smaller wire.

What I did is similar to what spencer8 is suggesting. I ran 4 channels worth a 12 AWG from the amp in my trunk to the harness that connects to the HU. That goes to all four doors in which I have a 6.5" Freeair sub that I am using for sub bass. Seems to work pretty well, I think the subs get enough power and the quality is good. Of course these are playing sub frequencies not midrange and tweeter level, they are low pass at 100Hz.

------------------
Brad W.
1998 Silver Frost SE
brantleyiii@earthlink.net
Photopoint Album
------------------
"Good leaders are scarce, so I'm following myself."

I had trouble when I got to the doors with my wire. It seemed like the door jam had just a large connector instead of a grommet to go through. It was hard plastic and seemed like more work than it was worth at the time. Correct me if I'm wrong.

------------------
'99 SE Duratec with 5spd
DTM muffler (sorry guys)
Resonator removed
3 JL 10W0s driven with Fosgate 500a2
Boston Acoustics RC520 components up front with Boston Coaxial in back both pairs driven with RF 400aIV with a lightening audio cap
ST200 wheels with Kumoh Ecsta 215/45/17's

It is a connector at the door jam. It allows the whole door to be removed by unhooking it and the hinges. I drilled a hole right in the middle of it to run my wires through. Not for the faint of heart.