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BradJ Offline OP
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Okay so I feel really stupid for doing this, but I didn't really have a choice. About a week ago I noticed a very light & intermittent ticking/clicking noise coming from the motor/valvetrain. Sounded like a lifter was sticking or something. So I knew I shouldn't drive it, but I was on duty for my Reserve unit and had to drive 90 miles (round trip) to the Port of Tacoma everyday to work from 0600-2100. I esentially had zero time to take a look at it so I just drove it lightly and as little as possible for three days. The sound never got worse until a few days ago when it went from almost unnoticeable to horrible in a matter of like 10 seconds. This is what it sounds like now:

http://www.bradnholly.com/vids (right click save as on the file MOV02050.MPG)

So I'm not a pro at these motors (former RX7/rotary owner). How bad do you guys think it is? Complete motor replacement? Just the heads/valvetrain? As soon as it got to that point (which seemed like instant) I shut it down and had it towed, so other than for the video it only ran for maybe 5 seconds in it's current state.

I'll have a chance this weekend to start taking it apart, I just wanted to get some advice on how bad you guys think it is.

I've got a feeling my tax return & bonus is already spent....

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This is just MY experience with a GTi VW. Made the exact same sound. Took off the oil pan and seen shavings all over. The connecting rod broke. At that point, i know it needed tons of work to repair. Basically a rebuild. I know the block wold have had to be re-done. Needed new crankshaft, connecting rods and others. It happend a little while ago so i cant remember all that needed to be repaired. But that sounds like a death rattle to me.

BTW we thaught it was a immidate valve or timing chain/cam chain problem, but ended being even worse. I dont want to be the person to bring bad news...but, It wont take long before that engine doesnt run at all.

Last edited by AftermathMotorsports; 02/14/04 12:16 AM.
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BradJ Offline OP
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Hey thanks for the reply. That's pretty much what I expected. I didn't think a rod broke cause it seemed to start up fairly easy after the clatter got really bad. I guess I won't know for sure until I take it all apart.

Anyhow, I'll probably just rebuild the whole thing since it's got 96,000 on it. So which way should I go?

1. Rebuild current motor to stock specs.
2. Buy new/reman 2.5L longblock.
3. Buy 3.0L shortblock, use 2.5L heads PnP with 3.0L valves fitted.

Looking for reliability more than anything. I want this sucker to last another 100,000 miles.

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Originally posted by BradJ:
Hey thanks for the reply. That's pretty much what I expected. I didn't think a rod broke cause it seemed to start up fairly easy after the clatter got really bad.



So did the GTi. I know VW and Furd are wuite different, but wont hurt much to take the oil pan off to double check.

If it were me; 3.0 L all the way!!!!

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Im very shocked to see that... Really sucks... I thought of the hydraulic lifters.... but I dont see hydraulic lifters on a Duratec, just lifters and rocker arms in the haynes manual, if you want reliable, just rebuild it to factory specs, get the cylinder heads rebuilt too, and see if your cylinders need to be resized. Doing all that should get that engine alot more life, I'm thinking of doing a complete rebuild of my engine, though I think a used, low milage Zetec would be cheaper than rebuilding it (and less painful). Though you Duratec people have it so easy to rev your engines, Zetecs you have to reach your hand underneath the air intake assembly


Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan --Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --

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