Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio factory Ford in-dash CD

1998 (1998.5? how can I tell) Contour SVT, factory Ford in-dash CD player.

I really like mine because it isn't flashy like many of the aftermarket units and it does everything I want it to do... almost. The one problem with mine is with playing back CDR media. It has never failed on a regular audio CD, but ones I record have problems. I've found that only some Princo and ProDisc (sold under other names) data CDs work, and a CMC Magnetics (sold as a "music" CD) disc. Often, the player would say error, switch to radio and spit out the CD. Some days it won't play any burned CDRs at all, until I play a regular CD for a while, then it'll play CDRs, as if it had to warm up or something.

Anyone else have these problems? Anyone find better media to use? I would like to eventually replace the in-dash with an aftermarket unit, but nobody makes one I like (CD player that can play MP3, more reliable than the Aiwa MP3 player and less flashy looking, more affordable and available than the Kenwood).

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Work like you don't need money,
Love like you've never been hurt,
And dance like no one's watching.

Clan of the Bloody Fist
1998 Contour SVT (stock)

I have about 20 CDs that I recorded from my collection that I keep in my car. They are recorded on a variety of different brand CDRs. Occasionally, i would get one to work on the factory head unit but there was absolutely no pattern. The same brand would work once and not the next. As far as I know, you are limited to the two choices of MP3 players you mentioned. Some have said that the Clarion Auto PC works, but that is twice as much as the Kenwood.

I wish I had better news because I am looking for something similar.

Dave

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99 SVT
Sony ES CDX-C910
Sony Digital EQ/X-over
Sony Changer
McIntosh MC440M
Adire Audio Shiva
MB Quart/Vifa seperates

if you have a compusa nearby, they sell a generic pack of 50 and one of 100 ($30, $20 when on sale) under their name. They are just wrapped in plastic and have a sticker that says compusa on them. I use these for all my audio cd's and they worked fine in the factory stereo. A really good deal for the price too. Never had a problem with them.

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2000 - SVT - Toreador

To Zap;
A common problem in CD players.The optic lens on many players have a blue tint.On original studio recorded CD's there is no tint on the burned side.On CDR's you buy for your own personal use have a blue tint,some have a light green tint.The blue tint or as I refer to the dark tint cannot be read by the optic lens in the CD player if the optic lens is pre-tinted. The tint on the optic lens plus on the CD = no read because the 2 colours make it too dark for the optic lens to read the CD.

Here how to solve the problem.Buy CDR's that have the light green or as some refer to blue green tint.They are usually always cheaper to buy because they are considered the lower quality compared to the darker blue tint,but they are readable for the pre-tinted optic lens in your player.Stay away from the gold tint CDR's they are the most expensive to buy and I have been told they don't work in some CD player's.Mostly in personal disc man type.

Now you know what to look for on your next
purchase of CDR's



[This message has been edited by fuji (edited October 20, 2000).]

Thanks for the replies. Every different type of blank CD I buy, I try in my car. I also read them with CDR Identifier, a program that can identify what company manufactured the media. As for color, I've found that it doesn't make too much difference. Out of three different types that I've used, one has been green and two light blue. Now, the DARK blue, I've never had any luck with. As for the green, I've read that the color isn't from the dye used, but is just the normal blue on a gold background. The only "green" media I have are all gold on the top.

mzilla, the CompUSA stuff that I have (silver on top, light blue on bottom, 74min, CompUSA branded on top with blue and red) is made by ProDisc, known to be very "audio compatible."

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Work like you don't need money,
Love like you've never been hurt,
And dance like no one's watching.

Clan of the Bloody Fist
1998 Contour SVT (stock)

Zap - the easist way to tell if you have a 1998 or 1998.5 is if you have a dash clock by the blinking red light, or if it just says "Contour". 1998's have the clock. Other signs, 1998.5's have flatter wheels, like the ones in Tim Kirk's pics.

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I don't have a personality. I have an attitude

Ross 1998 E0 SVT T-Red

The Factgory HU is very finicky when it comes to playing CDR media. I have found that discs that play today will not play tomorrow and vice versa. I finally gave up and bought the AIWA CDC-MP3 unit. It plays every time of media I have thrown at it.

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1998.5 Contour SVT - Silver Frost Metallic (Frosty).
Panoramic Rear-view mirror with clock.
AIWA CDC-MP3 Stereo System. 40.5K miles.

Thanks, svtcarboy. I have the clock. I also found out that the car was probably one of the first that was manufactured for that model year. I bought it in September of 1998. The manufacture date was September of 1997. It may have been somewhat of a demo model, had between 200-300 miles on it when I bought it.

BTW, I took it in Monday (10/23) to the dealer. They are gonna repaint it under warranty (I have about 35,600 on it, hehe) but I'll be without it for at least TWO weeks. Sucks. This week I'm carpooling to work, next week I'll probably have to drive a loaner F150 from my parents. Damn gas guzzler.

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Work like you don't need money,
Love like you've never been hurt,
And dance like no one's watching.

Clan of the Bloody Fist
1998 Contour SVT (stock)