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Joined: Nov 2001
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Car is in the shop, tranny is out, being repaired. I got a good look at my engine oil leak today (1qt/3wks). I'm pretty sure it's the oil pan gasket. Should I try retorqueing the oil pan bolts or is that not recommended? Should I just replace the gasket instead? If I do retorque, do I need to loosen each bolt then torque to specs one at a time or loosen them all then retorque them all, or can I just retorque em without loosening them. Also is there a torque pattern that I need to follow. Thanks for your expertise. John
1998 ContourLX V6 ATX
Cats Gutted+MIL Eliminators
Grandma gave me the finger
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by jmatzick:
Car is in the shop, tranny is out, being repaired. I got a good look at my engine oil leak today (1qt/3wks). I'm pretty sure it's the oil pan gasket. Should I try retorqueing the oil pan bolts or is that not recommended? Should I just replace the gasket instead? If I do retorque, do I need to loosen each bolt then torque to specs one at a time or loosen them all then retorque them all, or can I just retorque em without loosening them. Also is there a torque pattern that I need to follow. Thanks for your expertise. John
I would take them all off first off. If you retorque them while they are on there, and they were already tight enough and the wrench clicks then they are overtorqued.
Take them all off, then retorque them, going from center then to the other side, but go over one, then back to other side and do the oppisite one of the one of you did. hope that made sense, main point dont do one side at a time all in a row, switch sides and start from center of pan.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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I dont think that just re-tightening the bolts will fix the leak....It didnt on mine. Just replace the gasket like me and gearhead are doing. The new one is only $25 and supposedly you dont have to lift the engine. Im gonna try that this weekend. Chances are that your gasket is worn out and it needs to be replaced. The OEM gaskets are aluminum and rubber so over tightening it will definately squash it.
1998 Contour LX, 2.5L V6
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Going to install new oil pan gasket tomorrow. From what I've been reading, its suggested to use sealant on the front cover? What front cover? I don't really understand what this means. Could somebody explain exactly where I should use the sealant. Can I use any good hi-temp gasket sealant? Is it 30ft.lbs oilpan to transaxle bolts and 18.5 ft. lbs oilpan to block bolts? Any other advice? Thanks, John
1998 ContourLX V6 ATX
Cats Gutted+MIL Eliminators
Grandma gave me the finger
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Joined: Jun 2003
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the torques you have right. if you need a picture of where to put the hi temp sealant go to www.autozone.com then their repair info section, then repair guides, then select the year of your car and all that, then to engine and engine overhaul, and then oil pan, down near the bottom of the page are some pictures that show the tightening sequence and where you need to put the sealant at also shows the loosening sequence
98.5 Black SE ATX
S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed
cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Awesome gearhead. Thats exactly the info I was looking for and just in time too. Thanks, John
1998 ContourLX V6 ATX
Cats Gutted+MIL Eliminators
Grandma gave me the finger
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