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99CSVT Offline OP
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I would like to replace the clutch in my CSVT, but am puzzled about these special couplings right between the intake manifold and the LF strut tower. The manual says to remove them with these special tools:
Disconnect Tool, Spring-Lock Coupling
310-D004 (23-039)
Disconnect Tool, Spring-Lock Coupling
310-D005 (23-039)
Also, on the fuel supply side, it looks like the owner before me tried to just take the hose off from the coupling and was unsuccessful. The fuel lines are of a construction I haven't seen before. It almost looks like shrink tubing surrounded by a standard 3/8" fuel line. I also wanted to know if this small, thin line alone will be able to withstand the pressure of the fuel system. I have made a replacement hose to put over it, and secured it with 4 hose clamps tightened just enough to try to relieve some of the stress on the line. If anyone has any pointers, let me know! If anyone needs pictures for a better idea, I will gladly send you some. Really appreciate it!
Sean


'99 Silver SVT Contour (2000 miles since June, now needs new front brakes and bearings) '98 CBR900RR Again (Put away for the winter)
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Here is how it is supposed to work:



There is a set of plastic tools available from AutoZone for about $10 that is adequate for these fuel lines.

If the PO replaced the couplers or otherwise damaged them, all bets are off.

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Originally posted by projectSHO89:
Here is how it is supposed to work:



There is a set of plastic tools available from AutoZone for about $10 that is adequate for these fuel lines.

If the PO replaced the couplers or otherwise damaged them, all bets are off.

Steve




Note that depending on which tool set you buy, some work better than others. I just used the cheap plastic ones that look like little funnels on my 95 and it took quite a bit of work to get the larger of the two couplings off. I had to use a pair of slip joint pliers behind the "lip of the funnel" part of the tool to gain leverage. Do yourself a favor and spray some penetrating fluid in to where the couplings meet a couple hours ahead of time. Crud and corrosion kind of build up in where the couplings join and you really have to work them sometimes to get them loose. Just remember to relieve the fuel pressure B4 doing so you don't get sprayed with gas!!

Good Luck


Former, now returned CEG'er! 95SE MTX, (AKA "The Road Rat"). Stock except for:TH fix, B.A.T. big brake kit, tranny cocktail and lots of re-insulated wiring! May yet be a 3.0! "Speed doesn't kill, stupidity does!"
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99CSVT Offline OP
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Thanks alot. Very helpful!


'99 Silver SVT Contour (2000 miles since June, now needs new front brakes and bearings) '98 CBR900RR Again (Put away for the winter)

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