Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Disconnecting the tie rod end non-destructively

Folks:

My first post �?? here goes�?�

First of all, keep in mind I am definitely an amateur when it comes to doing anything more complicated than an oil change.

Here is my problem. I have a 99 Contour SE (6 cylinder). The other day, the car died while I was driving on the Interstate. Not absolutely sure it is the alternator, but replacing the alternator seems like a reasonable first step I�??m willing to take.

I have read the many posts available on this and other sites about the difficulties of replacing an alternator on a 6 cylinder Contour. My Haynes book says to remove the right-hand drive axle, but fortunately, the Ford Service CD I have on my 99 Contour says that you can get adequate access by simply separating the tie rod end from the wheel knuckle and pushing it aside.

I have spent two frustrating (!) days trying to figure out how to remove this tie rod end, without any success at all. Both the Haynes book and the Ford CD tell me there is some kind cotter pin I have to remove from a castellated nut. I don�??t see a cotter pin and I don�??t see a castellated nut. All I see is a retaining nut on the underside of the ball joint. When I try to remove this nut with a wrench, the nut and the threaded bolt to which it is attached turn freely. Turning it accomplishes nothing. (One post suggested the ball joint is broken. Another said to apply pressure with a �??pickle fork�?�. Saw a posted reference to a �??cotter-pin-less" design where the nut has to be replaced after being removed. Is this the problem? Still, how do I remove it?)

Every description I have ever read about tie rod end removal (including Ford�??s) says you must use a special tie rod end puller/separator (and not a �??pickle fork�?�) if you want to remove the tie rod end non-destructively and reuse it. I have been unable to find locally the particular separator Ford recommends, so I got the next best thing �?? a Pitman arm tie rod separator, which looks quite a bit different but (I believe) does the same job.

Even if I were somehow able to get this retaining nut off, I cannot for the life of me picture how the Ford separator or the Pitman arm tool are used. Descriptions of the tool imply that you attach it in some way around the ball joint and turn its bolt, which forces the ball joint bolt upwards in such a way that it releases the tie rod arm without damaging the boot or the tie rod. I see no place either above or below the protective boot where this tool could be attached. To me, as I look down on the top of the tie rod/ball joint unit, it looks like one whole unit. I don�??t see how the tie rod separates from anything.

Here�??s what I�??d like to know:
1) Why doesn�??t my Contour have a castellated nut and cotter pin?
2) How do I remove the retaining nut I *can* see underneath the ball joint?
3) How do I use my Pitman arm tie rod separator to release the tie rod so I don�??t damage the boot? (Or can I do it without this bizarre tool?)

(All this and I haven't even addressed the removal of the alternator itself. I have to shake my head and wonder my last 4 vehicles have all been Fords.)

Can anyone straighten me out on this tie rod removal business? Am I just a stonehead, or is all this really as confusing as it seems.

I dont know why the stock tie rod ends don't have cotter pins. Mine didnt when I changed mine. But the new one come with all the hardware like a new jam nut, a cotter pin, a new boot, and a little nut to screw on top for the grease fiting thing. To remove the nut under the balljoint, just use a breaker bar to loosen it and it should come right out.
After that take your separator tool and put it between the knuckle and the boot and dont worry about damaging it becuase it comes with a new one and take a mallet and and hit it until it pops off the steering knuckle. After that use a wrench to hold the tie rod end itself and another one to loosen the nut. Take a mallet and tap it on the wrench to loosen that nut and after that itll screw off. Before doing this make sure you take measurements before removing it so it can be or close to being at the same spot where it was before. The installation will be the reverse of removal. After when you get it on, use your grease gun and put grease in the grease fitting hole until it oozes out a little and then stop and put on the little nut thing.

If you have anymore questions on this, please dont hesitate to reply to this message or pm me. Well take it easy.

I know it may not be the best way to do it but i have always used a piece of 2x4 and a rubber mallet and hit the tierod upwards till it was out.

Oh and on changing the alternator , you are doing it the hard way by removing all that stuff. It can be done with leaving everything in the but its a lil difficult. I have done it 4 times and its still a chanllenge each time, but it can be done with the right extensions, swivels, and sockets.

Ok...If you want the tie rod apart real easy follow these steps and wear eye protection.
1.Loosen off the nut but do not remove it
2. You need 2 hammers, one large one, like a 3lb or so
3. Now brace the heavier hammer against the side of the arm the tie rod goes through.
4. Smack the opposite side of the arm with the hammer and it'll pop out like nothing. I have never used a prying tool to remove a tie rod or ball joint...And I have removed many.

Duh..never read all your post...sorrry.Are you sure your removing the tie rod and your not trying to remove the link? Mistaking it as the tie rod? The tie rod steers your car...and is connected to the pitman arm. If its the link your moving, it has a place for the wrench behind it and is just a lock nut. The tie rod has a castle nut and cotter pin. If the tie rod is turning, then its allready broken from its seat and you need to tighten it again...then loosen the nut keeping pressure down on it. If that fails to work, then the tie rod end is no good and you'll have to cut or grind the nut off and buy a new outer tie rod end.Just if you do get a new one you have to count how many turns when you take it off and make sure the new one is turned on exactly the same amount of turns...or you'll need to get an alignment later on.

I would go back to your original assumption that the alternator was the reason your car died.

From the information you gave, there is really nothing there to hint that it is at fault. Perhaps there were other symptoms you didn't include.

If would really make you feel bad if the actual problem was not the alternator and you have gone through all this grief with the tie rod end for nothing.

Steve

Oh, how much fun I've had in the past with tie rod ends! In the situation you describe (where the end just torns freely with the nut) I've used a large hammer (5lb short sledge) to gently tap it down onto its seat, then firmly hold it down while trying to loosen the nut. Lots of PB Blaster and some heat (not at the same time unless you like to BBQ your car) help too. In one case I had to purchase a nut breaker (crosses legs) from Sears and split the nut off the tie rod end. Tie rod ends are relatively cheap and you're likely to rip the boot so I'd plan on just replacing it anyway.

Good luck,

Scott