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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 160
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 160 |
Ok, so...ever since monday my cooling fan goes to hell on me, I think the bearings went out cuz it kept making this loud grinding noise. Luckily it's not too warm outside so I unplug it and ride like that the rest of the week, till yesterday... It started getting really hot cuz i let it idle a long time so i plugged the fan back in and it works. I pull in to my driveway and i see smoke coming from under the hood and i look and the cooling fan motor is on fire! I guess it siezed completely and got really hot. So, after a couple of buckets of water it went out and i pulled the damn thing out. I had my son and girl with me, luckily it was nothing major. Has this ever happened to anyone before? And does anyone know if you can just replace the motor instead of the whole fan assembly? The plug to the fan is now some what melted and probably won't work now. The insulation to the wiring around the area is really, really bad. I guess the previous owner never had the wiring recall, done  This car is starting to piss me off
95 Gl Zetec Atx
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432 |
Take it to the stealership, I think the warranty is ten years or 160,000km.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,382
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,382 |
No the motor is part of the fan assembly. I have a V6, but I don't think the change is any different. I had to change my fan(s) when one of them burnt out as well.
I had to undo the bolts that hold the fan assembly on the top of the radiator, then get underneath the car and undo the bolts holding the bottom. Then pushing the radiator (from underneath) forward, I could pull the fan assembly out (at a weird angle)
It was a PITA and took about 2 hours. 1.5 of those me figuirng out what the hell I was doing.
If your mechanically inclined, you can do it. Otherwise, I'd go to a salvage yard, get a "new" fan assembly and have a shop put it on. It's not as hard when you have a lift.
Good luck!
"Fear is the little death."
Muadib.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 851
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 851 |
These fans are warranted against lockup for 125,000 miles according to the letter I got from Ford way-back-when.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 160
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 160 |
I was able to pull it own rather easily, I think it took me like 30 minutes but now I also need a new plug cuz mine is kind of deformed from the heat of the fire. Luckily i'm the parts manager of a body shop and I was able to get a deal on a used one for 50 bucks from one of my vendors.
95 Gl Zetec Atx
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 115
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 115 |
Originally posted by Nate'sTour:
No the motor is part of the fan assembly. I have a V6, but I don't think the change is any different. I had to change my fan(s) when one of them burnt out as well.
I had to undo the bolts that hold the fan assembly on the top of the radiator, then get underneath the car and undo the bolts holding the bottom. Then pushing the radiator (from underneath) forward, I could pull the fan assembly out (at a weird angle)
It was a PITA and took about 2 hours. 1.5 of those me figuirng out what the hell I was doing.
If your mechanically inclined, you can do it. Otherwise, I'd go to a salvage yard, get a "new" fan assembly and have a shop put it on. It's not as hard when you have a lift.
Good luck!
While I realize this genleman's fan is toast, this might help out others save a few bucks. This is an edited version of a post I did back in September, if anyone is interested:
As an alternative, fan motor CAN be removed and rebuilt. (I rebuilt mine.)
Usually what goes is a little ball bearing in the front.
Bearing industry part number is 608-ZZ or 608-2Z. When replacing, use bearing number 608-2RS.(Costs maybe $5.00, $10.00 if you're getting ripped off!)
ZZ or 2Z = double metal sheilds on bearing. Keeps some of the crap out.
2RS = double rubber lip seals, keep 99% of the crap/ water out and does a much better job keeping the grease in.
(I used to work in the bearing industry.)
These are tiny little bearings about the size of a nickle, and of course Ford uses the cheaper "zz" version. (That 2 cent difference adds up!) Fan motor itself is made by Bosch and seems to be a pretty decent design other than the cheap bearing. You will have to remove the fan blades first to get at the motor mounting screws. As I recall, it is a sliding plate that fits in a notch on the fan shaft. Tap it off and you can gently tap on the motor shaft to drive the motor off the fan hub. Penetrating fluid ahead of time on the fan shaft will help. To open the motor there are tabs on the back that are bent over. Carefully bend them back out of the way. I clamped the motor in a vise and used a hammer and a brass drift to bend 'em back. Mark the back plate and the motor housing before you take them apart so you can put it back together the same way! When dissasembling, watch out for the brushes and springs so they don't go flying out! You'll see them as you start to take it apart. I used a pieces of string to hold them in place as I took apart. Drill out the rivets holding the front bearing retainer plate in, making sure you mark which part of the plate faces outward B4 removing. Re-use the corragated metal bearing sleeve. Use short stainless steel screws and lock nuts and some Loctite when re assembling. (Sorry I don't remember the exact size but you can find them at a good hardware store.) You will need to open the rivet holes a TINY bit to get the crews in. Make sure the fan does not rub against the screws, trim the screws after assembling if nescessary. If it rubs a little bit its OK as it will "self clearance" itself in the first few seconds of running. The back bearing is a simple pourous bronze bushing. Clean to area with electrical or brake cleaner. You will need put a few drops of turbine oil in. This is easily found in " Zip Spout " oilers. (A good hardware store will have it, or an HVAC supply house.) DO NOT use any of the 3 in 1 type oils, even the ones marked for electric motors! They have way too high a viscosity for this aplication and will not be properly absorbed by the bushing! Let sit overnight to absorb the oil and wipe away the excess before putting everything back together.You will need to hold the brushes in their sleeves when you re assemble the motor. I used string and cut the string away after sliding them back into place. Put everything back in place, aligning the marks you made, and peen the tabs back over.
The hardest part is actually getting the fans out of the car and then removing them from the housing!! Actually rebuilding the fan motor is cake! If you're not comfortable doing it, take it to a local shop that rebuilds car electrics like starters and alternators. Its WAY cheaper than buying new from Ford!!! I did mine about 6 months ago and its running smooth as silk!
Former, now returned CEG'er!
95SE MTX, (AKA "The Road Rat"). Stock except for:TH fix, B.A.T. big brake kit, tranny cocktail and lots of re-insulated wiring! May yet be a 3.0!
"Speed doesn't kill, stupidity does!"
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 115
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 115 |
OOPS!  Forgot to mention, you can get the 608-2RS bearings at a bearing supply house (look in the yellow pages under "bearings" or "power transmission equipment") or an auto electrical shop ("automobile electrical service"). Just make sure you get the -2Rs not the -2Z version.
Former, now returned CEG'er!
95SE MTX, (AKA "The Road Rat"). Stock except for:TH fix, B.A.T. big brake kit, tranny cocktail and lots of re-insulated wiring! May yet be a 3.0!
"Speed doesn't kill, stupidity does!"
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