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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 383
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 383 |
Originally posted by Andy W.:
Actually is pretty common to have to take off the lower ball joint to remove the strut. Just because you don't understand something doesn't make it stupid. At least our lower ball joints don't fail like most older hondas.
-Andy
I "understand" how it works and I "understand" that the strut is clamped into the spindle, but I "understand" that it very often refuses to come loose, much less come all the way out of the spindle, and it is also my "understanding" that the shop manual doesn't address having to undo the ball joint, so that as far as the factory is concerned, you shouldn't have to. And I also "understand" that most other strut cars out there use a simple but effective and relatively painless bolt-it-to-the-spindle method of attachment, which also provides a nice way of adjusting caster and camber if need be, unlike the Contour. So as far as I'm concerned, the Contour's method of attaching the strut to the spindle is stupid on multiple levels, not because I "don't understand" it, but because I DO.
Pacific Green '96 Contour LX V6
â??98 GTP, light mods, 14.66/94
Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101
Crown Autocross Club 1999 Street Tire Champion, 2000/2001/2002 Street Modified Champion
KCR SCCA 2002 Solo II Street Modified Champion
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,091
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,091 |
Took 12+ hrs the first time...could definately do it in 2 now...The secrets to the job are a giant pry bar and a BFH. With those 2 tools, it's super simple.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397
b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397 |
With the proper tools, i.e. a wedge that is split like a tunning fork, they pop right out everytime! As for the Strut to spidle connection, a little PB Blaster, time, and patience, I've never had any problem. I've have more problems with Koni's being fat and having to pry it open a little! Again, a thin wedge and a hammer fixes that!
-Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 666
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 666 |
Here is how I got mine out. I've done the spring/strut swap twice on a contour. The first time is took 11 hours because I/we could not get the struts out of the arm. The same problem you are having. The second time it took 3 hours using this trick below..hee hee  I supported the A-arm and the jack pushed the strut up just high enough to let it pop out. To get them back in I/we dropped the subframe. I should have done that in the first place...live and learn.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 17
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 17 |
 Dude you are the Freakin Bomb.... I would have never thought of that !!!! that makes perfect sense....and when I get back from being underway....thats the first place iam going....The Hobby shop ! Thanks Alot bro, George
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,165
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,165 |
I was thinking about doing my struts when I first read this post and I have since installed BAT Euro Struts on my stock SVT springs. It really wasn't hard getting the strut off at all. I just hit that mother like hell with a BFH and it came right out every time. The problem was always gettin it back in. But by the fourth one it was cake. First strut took about 6 hours.  But that includes 3 trips to sears to pick up a few things, a trip to pick up my sister cause her battery died, and an hour break at pizza hut. Second one took probably 3 hours. And then the rear two probably 1.5hrs for the first and we finished out the last one in under 45mins. The most time was defintely spent getting the bottom of the strut back in the knuckle on each strut.
I live in Detroit, I couldn't give a **** how good my car is in the "twisties."
"I could use a hundred people who don't know there is such a word as impossible."
~Henry Ford
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397
b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,397 |
Originally posted by Shaun G:
Here is how I got mine out. I've done the spring/strut swap twice on a contour. The first time is took 11 hours because I/we could not get the struts out of the arm. The same problem you are having. The second time it took 3 hours using this trick below..hee hee
I supported the A-arm and the jack pushed the strut up just high enough to let it pop out.
To get them back in I/we dropped the subframe. I should have done that in the first place...live and learn.
Sorry but that is simply retarded! If you pop out the lower ball joint and slide the caliper mount backwards the struts pop right out! Get a manual!
-Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 705
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 705 |
Quote:
Sorry but that is simply retarded! If you pop out the lower ball joint and slide the caliper mount backwards the struts pop right out! Get a manual!
-Andy
He is right, I printed off the how to here on CEG, it helped me out!
-Jeff-
1998 Black SVT
Morette Twin headlight conversion
Street flight turbo kit collecting dust!
Rebuilding my 3.0L
check it out
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459 |
I suspect there is a difference in replacing the struts on the early model and late model 'tours/stiques'. If you read the umpteen million posts about this subject, it seems that you have some people who say it is relatively easy, and some who say it is very difficult. I've had mine out 2 or 3 times, and even though it gets easier after you've done it a time or two, I would have to say that it is still a very difficult job.
I suspect that when Ford changed the control arms, from horizontal to vertical bushings (or was it the other way around?), that the change also affected the ease or difficulty of removing and replacing the struts. If I wasn't so lazy, I'd go back through all the posts, and see if the people who thought the job was easy/difficult drove a car with the early model or late model control arms.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
It does seem that 98+ owners can get their control arms to go further down than our's, but it's still a relatively easy job once you figure it out.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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