Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting WTF??? DMD Install Problem, cannot remove belt...

Over at:

http://www.contour.org/cgi-ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=003998#000000

See my reply at http://www.contour.org/cgi-ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=007268&p=

Thanks G (now I sound like a homie on the block :p )

I finally got it figured out, but there is still no way a breaker bar is going in there. You have to buy/rent a special tool.

I changed my belt 2-3 weeks ago using a 3/8" 12-inch long breaker bar. (1997 Duratec, ATX). I slipped it from the front, under the engine mount, parallel to the ground. The socket holder block of the breaker bar pointing to the rear of the car, just until I got near the hole in the belt tensioner. Then I just turned the socket holder in the hole. (Well at least it's clear in my head! )

I pushed on the breaker bar using an old metal pipe that was rusting in the back of the garage, and slipped the belt off the A/C pulley.

In fact, I recall it was much harder to reposition the new belt that it was to remove the old one...

Still, the special tool would make for a easier belt change..

Not true, my Contour also has very little room between the car frame and the tensioner (about 1/2" or so). That is why I had to buy three different tools before I found one that would fit in there. The tool that I used was a Sears 3/8"-drive flex handle (part # VVQ 44363).

FYI: I had to insert the tool with the 3/8" drive head of the breaker bar at about a 45 degree angle. In other words, it won't fit in if you have the head at a 90 degree angle.

There are also special serpentine belt tools that they sell at most auto stores that look like long flat pieces of metal with a 3/8" drive at one end.

Oh, it's true all right. You need to look at my car and see just how little room there is. Like I stated in the other thread, I can barely get a breaker bar in there when the drive socket is flat. There is no way you are going to insert it with the drive socket at 90 degrees as it needs to be. Absolutely no way.

I bought a drive belt tensioner tool kit at sears for about $40

originally posted in other thread (by Sandman333):
Yeah, I always wondered why Ford couldn't have just made the stinkin Contour like 1 or 2 inches wider. I think it woulda even made the car look way cooler looking too. Plus it would have cornered even better if the tire tracks were out wider too.
I got my belt off/on (I'm pretty sure) with an endwrench on the idler pulley nut if I remember right (changed maybe 2 yrs ago)? If I did use a 3/8 breaker bar in the slot though, all must have went well, because I cannot remember it being a pain in the a.. or anything. In many cases, technique is 90% of success (and proper tools is the rest). I'm an auto tech for a living though, so I got experience on my side. Glad to hear you got it though

PS- An impact gun works the best to remove the crank pulley nut. The jolting force makes it so you don't have to hold the crank from turning

Yeah, problem is I don't have one.....