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Joined: Jul 2002
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Hi, Last night the CEL turned on while driving, what is it?, Am I in big troubles?, he car seems to work normally, Can I drive safely for about 3 weeks without check it?, Thanks
1998 Contour V6 2.5L ATX
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You've just hit on the biggest problem with the Tour... The CEG 99% it's the O2 sensors. Need to replace them. The car will drive fine either way, just helps to get rid of the light.
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I meant CEL or Check Engine Light.... me fingers just are a typing away!
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Thank you Nate, It is very good to know that, because right now I do not have a lot of money, Any idea of how much should I pay to get changed the sensor?, is it too difficult to change it myself?
1998 Contour V6 2.5L ATX
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Although the CEL might indicate a bad or failing O2 sensor, I would not just throw parts at the car. There are four O2 sensors, and each cost in the vicinity of $50-$75.
Also, there are hundreds of things that a CEL can indicate. You could have a loose gas cap, a loose or broken vacuum hose, an EGR system problem, bad spark plugs, etc.
You need to get the code read in order for any real help. I hear that Autozone will read the CEL for free.
Once you get the correct CEL #, you can search the CEG forums for an answer or post a new question.
1996 Contour SE Sedan 4D (Royal Blue) Duratec V6 2.5L 24-valve DOHC Automatic 75,000 miles No Mods (unless you call the DMD a mod) Replaced EGR valve (gunked up), EVR (EGR VR), PCV valve, and evaporative emissions hose (cracked).
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I had success getting AutoZone to pull the CEL codes on a different vehicle (Isuzu Trooper). It was free and I was out of there within 5 minutes. They also reset the computer, and since the cause for the code boiled down to a loose gas cap, the problem was solved.
Jason current 95 Contour SE (V6) MTX owner former 96 Mystique LS V6/MTX owner
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OH, I'm not saying change the O2 sensors. The best bet it to get it to a diagnostic tech and have the computer checked. That'll tell you where to start. I'm just saying, I'll bet it's the O2 sensors.
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Well, yesterday i filled the gas tank and the light is off now, So I'll wait until it comes on again to take it to the diagnostic, The problem now is that while driving to my work, the car in D (also R, 1 and 2) idles at 500 rpm aprox. when it used to idle at 700 rpm, in P it still idles at 700 rpm, Anyway I'll make oil change in this week and later i'll take to the diagnostic. Any recomendation for the oil?, here all the people like to use 20W40, I know it is recomended 5w30, any problems if I use 20W40, here is very hot, 110F daily, TNX
1998 Contour V6 2.5L ATX
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You may still want to take it to get the codes checked. The computer has memory that will store a code for a couple of weeks even if your check engine light has since shut itself off.
Dave
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Originally posted by ramon1809: Any recomendation for the oil?, here all the people like to use 20W40, I know it is recomended 5w30, any problems if I use 20W40, here is very hot, 110F daily, TNX You might be able to raise the winter rating (5W) of the oil (to 10W, or 15W) since it is very hot there and startup temperatures shouldn't be a problem. But I wouldn't change the summer rating (30) of the oil, since the operating temperature of the engine should be the same down there as most other places during the summer. If the winters are cold down there, then you might want to change back in the fall. FYI, here are some articles on oil: http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/driving/articles/44791/article.html http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
1996 Contour SE Sedan 4D (Royal Blue) Duratec V6 2.5L 24-valve DOHC Automatic 75,000 miles No Mods (unless you call the DMD a mod) Replaced EGR valve (gunked up), EVR (EGR VR), PCV valve, and evaporative emissions hose (cracked).
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