Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Potentially deadly problem at WOT

Ya ya, that's the ticket - Whip-like.

I just replaced the battery in my car and noticed that the neg terminal post was just slightly smaller than the tighest that I could make the connector. I thought this was odd because the replacement battery was the exact same type of battery, and the connection was not as tight as it should have been.
Sure enough, I went to start my car in another city in another province far away from home and the car was dead. I felt rather sick as I lifted the hood wondering how much this was going to cost. It was then that I learned my lesson. The connection on the neg post had come off. Now I have a little copper wiring in between the post and the connection loopy thing(let's keep it technical) and everything is plenty tight.
Thanks for sitting through that.
Rob

I figured it was from the drivetrain moving as well. The 2nd time I had it happen, it was as I pulled away from the curb and I let the RPMs drop a little low and sort of bogged it. When the engine/trans lashed as the clutch engaged, the light show (on the dash) ensued followed by the windshield wipers.

I'm still confused why the engine remained running for a short (15 sec. or so) period of time and then died. Was it running off the alternator until it just couldn't crank it fast enough to get positive output?

I'm guessing that the wire that came loose only powers engine management, as my stereo, a/c, etc. stayed on.

Somewhat similar story for my 95 Windstar. Just after the head gasket blew on vacation (bought tools and replaced it myself), I finally got home and every so often for about 4 days the van refused to start. If I let it sit for 1/2 hour, it usually started right up. Drove it to the Ford dealer, and of course they suggested a fuel pump right away.

I told them that I didn't think it was the fuel pump, since I could hear it pressurize the line every time I turned the key to run. Attempting to start the vehicle after the line is pressurized should result in the engine at least trying to fire, if not running for a second or two. If it wasn't going to start, it never even tried to fire.

So, I traced the wiring schematics from my Haynes manual :rolleyes: , the first thing I replaced was the Constant Control Relay Module, as that controls the fuel pump among other things. That didn't fix it, so I went back to the dealer and tried to convince the mechanic that it wasn't the fuel pump and had to be something else. He wouldn't budge.

So, next I replaced the ignition switch (in the fuel pump circuit). Still no help.

Finally I replaced the PCM Power Relay (seperate from the CCRM). That fixed it. The PCM Relay was $4.89 IIRC. The fuel pump would have cost me over $300 just for the part. The CCRM was $75, the Ignition Switch was $26.

So, for just over $100 I fixed the problem. The Ford dealer would have had me spend $300+ (not including installation) and I still would have had the problem. How ironic that a $4.89 part fixed it. Can you imagine how pissed I would have been had I followed the mechanic's advice? And he was supposed to be the powertrain expert! Too bad they don't listen to their customers more.

Sorry to cross post, but you guys kicked a$$ before, so let's see if anybody has any clues to mine.

Link to the thread that brought me here in the first place.

Thanks

Wow...I don't know if this is a vicious circle or a deadly loop.