Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Engine Misfire - Any ideas?

Well, while driving home tonight, I was going 45 in 5th gear when all of a sudden, the car severely hesitated and almost stalled. Then the dreaded CEL came on and started blinking. Fun. The car got me home, but now it runs REALLY ruff and smells REALLY bad, like paint thinner. No oil smoke or smell. I hooked up my laptop and here's what I got:

• P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
  
• P1132 Lack Of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor Indicates Rich (see P2196)
  
• P1152 Lack Of HO2S21 Switches - Sensor Indicates Rich (see P2198)
  

So, like duh, I could have told myself that. So, what does this all mean, sounds like I'm not getting the correct spark to cylinder 3? Spark plug? Coil pack? Wire? What would cause this to happen so suddenly?

Anyway, I decided after reading the forum archives to look at the plugs and wires. I visually inspected the wire for #3, and it looked "good". So I decided to switch two plugs, #3 and #6. I then restarted the car, cleared the CEL code, and drove around the block. CEL came back on with the same code:

• P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
  

Another observation is the "smoke" from the exhaust. It was very humid and dark, but I saw A LOT of vapors coming out from the exhaust, smelled like paint thinner. Could this help diagnosis the problem?

Other information. I did have a low fuel tank, drove it to the gas station around the corner, filled up, but only put in 12.7 gallons. So I donâ??t think I ran out of gas.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ryan

Ok, an update to my problem. I replaced the spark plug wires today, and reset the computer (pulled Fuse 11). Started it back up, seems to idle "ok", but under acceleration very rough. I still have A LOT of vapor coming out of the exhast. The CEL has not yet come back on.

Have I ruled out the plug wires as a problem? Should I focus next on the Coil, or injectors?

Did you already replace the spark plugs?

Now that I think about it, I had a friend that had a firebird with the V-6. One of the coil pack towers went out. It kept saying misfire too. I dont know if the computer has a code for the coil pack or not. Help me out guys.

Blaze

Last night, I replaced the spark plugs and coil pack. Reset the PCM (Took out Fuse #11). Started her back up, seemed to idle fine, had an interesting new noise (whine) out of the left size of the motor. Took her for a drive, but no change. Still missing, running rough (hesitating) under acceleration.

Based upon this, I'm now officially crying "UNCLE". It would seem that the next thing to do is to replace the injectors. After reading the manual, it appeared to be too much work for this "home mechanic". Therefore, I dropped her off at a local Ford Dealer this morning. I will post a follow-up once they fix it.

BTW - I'm trying a new dealership, closer to home. Anybody heard of Mac Haik in Georgetown, Texas? Any good?

Ok, got a really weird one for you. I just got the car back this afternoon from the shop. First, they told me that they found a "Coil Error Code", so it was a good thing I replaced that. However, one minor question, how did the Tech get a code when I had cleared the codes using my ODB-II laptop program, and had pulled fuse #11? I thought they were supposed to be cleared?

Anyway, the solution to the problem was not with the injectors, but the ECU wiring. It seems that when Ford built my car, they ran the ECU wiring over the AC and next to an engine bracket. After 60K miles, the engine bracket finally wore through the cable. Apparently, this was shorting out the injectors. Here's a pic:



I would have never found that one. Oh well, the shop was nice, they only charged me the diag fee plus 1 hour service, they claimed that it took them all morning (4+ hours) and two techs to find it.

Ryan

Thanks for following up and allowing us to share. I was trying use my 98 Ford CD and it did indicate it was one of those troubles where you need to check the almost everything. definitely not the most helpful to pinpoint. One of those types, check this, yes or no, then if yes, check this, if no, check this. 4 hours and charged you one, sounds like a dealer to stick with?
So it turned out to be a good hard "look/eyeball" test. That sure doesn't happen that much anymore. Probablely be easier if manufacturers didn't have to pack every square/inch of the engine compartment?
Just curious what is the color code on that wire?

As far as them getting a code, PFM we use to have many such things at the phone company?

I'll have to check under my Mystique's hood just to make sure.
That same area or just to the left of it, had another chafing problem. But that was a clamp on the rubber power steering hose rubbing the freon line just below it.
It's always a good idea to take time time and do a visual inspection, especially when you first get the vehicle. Every vehicle I've ever looked under the hood has had some sort of an interference problem. Troubleshooting is hard enough under normal conditions without the odd-ball things.
Tnx
Paul

It helps to wait, the first time I click on your pic (what for camera did you use?) nothing happened. Yep that the same high pressure liquid line for the AC, except close to the powersteering reservior. I think after 98 that got corrected???
That whole area along the back of engine area is ugly mess. And putting a fuse (175 amp) in that location is stupid. I know it was probablely a cost cutting measure just the way they laid it out. Can't blame the engineer, don't believe there is any other place to put thought?? I'm sure with the whole package outside of the car it seemed like only way to go. But as usual once it's assembled, mechanics beware EH?
One more thing was cable/area mounted tight up against the back sied of the bracket. With all movement a frontwheel drive motor goes thru, the engineers hsould have taken that into account.