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#790402 11/06/03 08:04 PM
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I have a 1997 Contour GL - V6/Manual 5-speed. I have 78,000 mles on it, and have replaced the rotors on one previous occasion. I am noticing the same "warped" rotor feel coming from the L/frt wheel. It started about 3 months after the last time I had the rotors turned. The previous time, the problem was corrected by turning the rotors. Now the same wheel seems to be warped again. What could be causing this problem..... Help....

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There have been a lot of discussions about this in the past. According to the posts, some possibilities seem to be (1) improperly torqued lug nuts (2)improperly broken in rotors/pads (3) sticking/unlubricated caliper pins.


95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn) 95 Mystique Zetec, MTX 2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec 1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8 1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Turning warped rotors only postpones the problem as the metal morphology is already in the warped crystalline structure. Thus when you turn them you're just removing the peaks and leaving the "wavey" metal form behind....ad heat and viola, warped again.

Plus turning rotors only makes them thinner and that reduces their mass, which in turn reduces their ability to act as heats sinks (which is part of the design) thus the excess heat that they cannot disspate quick enough causes meatrial expansion.. and as the rotors were warped before they'll warp again.

solution buy new rotors. Simple as that.


The fact that you turned your rotors and the problem return should be enough proff of this phenomenon.

Warped rotors are like a cancer. You can treat the symptoms temporarily but unless you cut it out completely it comes right back.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi the Aussie:

solution buy new rotors. Simple as that.



It would be nice if it was that simple. I put new rotors on the mystique about 10K ago, and they started to warp (or at least vibrate) after about 5k. My wheels are torqued uniformly to 95 lbs, I've lubed the pins twice, and I rarely brake aggressively enough to overheat the brakes. I went through the breaking in process after I installed the new rotors, but apparently I've done something wrong. I had the rotors turned on my contour, and after about 5k the problem also came back on that car. I've been driving 35 years, and the contiques are the first cars I've ever owned with this problem.


95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn) 95 Mystique Zetec, MTX 2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec 1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8 1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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There is merit to Stazi's response, but that is not always the case.

Many times a rotor that has been "seasoned" by many heating and cooling cycles and then machined (as long as there is still plenty of thickness remaining) is a more stable rotor than a new "green" rotor. Green meaning that it has not been "cured" from heating and cooling.

Another answer for a persistant problem of warped rotors is to have you new premium quality rotors cyrogenically cured before installing them. You can read about it a www.frozenrotors.com If you shop around you can find a local source and you may even be able to find better pricing. We have a local ambulance company that supplies us with rotors for their vehicles when we do their brakes. They have them treated before we install them. They claim that they get much longer rotor life because of the treatment. It isn't cheap.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited

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