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Joined: Sep 2003
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DanB - Yes, I remember you discussing this before & mentioning these factors. Appreciate your insight & expertise.

But do you feel that my main concern might be something to take into consideration? That since these pumps appear to shatter mainly because of the poor housing design where the cone in the housing comes loose & hits against the impeller, and w/a new metal pump you will still be using the old housing & cone, as that's the only way metal pumps come (just the guts), wouldn't it be a real disaster if the old cone came loose & hit a metal impeller - more so than hitting plastic?

With a new Motorcraft, you would be getting a new housing, & *hopefully* a cone that won't come loose, or at least in better shape than your old one. Which brings to mind this question - anyone have a (supposedly improved) replacement Motorcraft pump that has had the cone come loose?? I'm assuming that they only changed the type of impeller plastic used & that the housing design is still the same, or is the cone more secure in the redesigned Motorcraft?


'96 Contour SE Teal Duratec V6 MTX 54,000 Miles (Purchased New) Not a Newbie - Had To Re-register!
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Originally posted by Janine:
...wouldn't it be a real disaster if the old cone came loose & hit a metal impeller - more so than hitting plastic?




I don't think a metal impeller will shatter in thousand pieces. I'm not sure about how hard (rigid) is the material for the metal impeller, but I'm sure the high temp of the coolant will keep it less rigid, thus preventing from shattering like glass (or plastic in our case).

My WP replacement is here, and guess what? Yes, is metal.
So a bit of approval on my decision is important for me.

Just my thougts.


Pablo Quintana 98 SE Sport Contour Honduras, Central America
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I'm not sure why the cone becomes seperated from the housing, but mine was OK when the impeller split in half. Maybe the cause was corrosion related from infrequent coolant changes. Perhaps some kind of impact occured from a disintegrating impeller.
Whatever the case, a new housing/cone would be the best but most costly option. I would recommend a thorough inspection of the cone and base your decision on that. If there are any signs that it is coming loose, by all means replace the assembly.
IIRC, someone in CEG used epoxy to secure the piece to the housing.


Dan B. 96 SE 2.5 auto
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