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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121 |
I keep having my rear sway bar mount break on the drivers side.Is this common?Ive even welded xtra metal in.Is there an upgrade I can buy?Any suggestions?  The car is lowered with eibach springs.
Rusty
'00 silverfrost SVT
'99 black SVT
'86 black SVO
'86 red SVO (for sale)
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 217
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 217 |
Rusty,
Ideally the mounting point for sway bar bracket needs to be boxed-in. If it helps, I'll try to dig up pictures of my subframe that I got from Terry Haines. No more breakage so far. What sway bar are you running?
George Hodge
New: Volvo S60R
Old:2000 SVT Silver Frost 1188/2150
DMD, 75mm Pro-M, HPP rear strut tower bar
Aussie 24mm sway bar (with boxed in subframe)
BAT European Handling Kit, Brullen Y-pipe
Performance Ford spherical bearing end links
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121 |
Thanks for reply..Im running factory sway bar, should I upgrade?Please post pics,cause im tired of rewelding this thing back together,and the cluncking noise is driving me crazy!!! 
Rusty
'00 silverfrost SVT
'99 black SVT
'86 black SVO
'86 red SVO (for sale)
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121 |
George....you live about 10 mins from me, hell with the pics!!!  I can stop by!!!
Rusty
'00 silverfrost SVT
'99 black SVT
'86 black SVO
'86 red SVO (for sale)
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 217
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 217 |
You've got two SVOs. I think I'll have to stop by.  I'll try to dig up those pictures tomorrow. They are definitely better than trying to look under the car. We definitely have to meet up.
George Hodge
New: Volvo S60R
Old:2000 SVT Silver Frost 1188/2150
DMD, 75mm Pro-M, HPP rear strut tower bar
Aussie 24mm sway bar (with boxed in subframe)
BAT European Handling Kit, Brullen Y-pipe
Performance Ford spherical bearing end links
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 55
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 55 |
Could someone post pics of a reinforced mounting point for the rear sway bar bracket, please.
I've heard this one many times but would like a visual aid to show my mechanic when I start more suspension upgrades.
Thanks in advance.
1999 Silver SE, MTX
K+N, Magnecor 8mm
Brullen Y-Pipe
BAT struts and brakes
Sony X-Plode, Cerwin-Vega
Some little stuff (tint, cupholder, cargo net, etc.)
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 217
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 217 |
MJF4 and Ibjamn,
I made a post complete with pictures concerning the welded up subframe. Take a look here:
pics
George Hodge
New: Volvo S60R
Old:2000 SVT Silver Frost 1188/2150
DMD, 75mm Pro-M, HPP rear strut tower bar
Aussie 24mm sway bar (with boxed in subframe)
BAT European Handling Kit, Brullen Y-pipe
Performance Ford spherical bearing end links
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 113
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 113 |
I can jump into the fray here and offer pictures of my fix. my fix Original thread
-Kurt
50% of all people are below average.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,506
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,506 |
Hey guys, I appreciate your pictures. But would you have more details on doing this to add to the pictures? Or does anyone else have other examples of what they've used and done to reinforce the rear subframes, to be able to handle aftermarket sway bars? It's a loooooonnng way from my place to your favored shops in Michigan, and with the number of aftermarket bars already on Contiques out there, there must be more information and guidance available.
MSDS, SHO-shop Y, custom 2.5" catback; xcal2; 63mm TB, K&N 3530; Koni struts, Aussie bar; THaines forks, Quaife, SpecII, UR fly; DMD; Nima UD pullies; Stazi brakes; f&r Pole120 mounts. Just a daily commuter car. Silver '98 SVT E0 #3159
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 113
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 113 |
PDX, there's really no way around dropping the subframe and getting familiar with a welder. You could try an in situ fix by keeping the subframe in place and bolting or welding on a scab plate (as both Stazi and TH have done in the past), but my experience with that was poor at best. In the end, I had to get the subframe out of there for a proper fix.
Don't get discouraged just because ATI and HMS are a long way from Oregon. Certainly there are a number of good race fabrication shops out you way. ATI had no prior experience with this problem, but they handled it beautifully. Find a shop that does rally car prep and give them a call. If they can build a roll cage, your fix will be easy by comparison.
Let me know if there is more detail I can provide. I know the feeling of no rear sway bar, and I don't want you to go without one as long as I did.
-Kurt
50% of all people are below average.
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