Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting NEW engine but have Elecritical prob...HELP!!

Simon... Is the connector for the pull in wire an eyelet(round connector) or a blade connector?? If it is the blade connector,Ford had corrision problems with these.I can't remember when Ford switched from a blade to an eyelet.The blade connector can be cleaned or replaced.This was just another idea for the starter problems.

Simon,

Grab yourself a beer, and sit back and scratch your head.

If the KEY is in the ON position, and you jump the starter to crank the engine,
does the engine start or just crank?

Have you checked all of the cables from the battery to their connectors, make sure they are plugged together tightly ?
Make sure all the grounds from the battery are connected ?

Do you get a Check Engine light when you turn the key to the ON position ?

I called out a 24 hour Mechanic tonight and he was over for abour 2 hours looking at it. We verifed that ALL grounds are good, power fromthe battery is getting to the starter/sol. All fuses and relays are fine and getting power.
The ONLY consistant problem we found was the thin cable with the round plug on the end that goes to the male plug with the thin wire (near the battery) going to the sol is NOT getting power.
We verfired that power is going to the fuse box but from there it simply "disapears".
But that doesn't explain why the fule pump does NOT start when the key is in the ON position. The mechanic tested all the wires under the stearing colum and found a couple that were not getting power also.

I do get a CEL when the key is on the ON position but he never put a scanner on it to find out what the codes are if any.

He said the next thing he would try is a new ignition switch and after that if nothing, to take it into a shop so they can do a FULL electrical/wire check.

I'm assuming that would be some serious $$$$$$.

To say I'm "gutted" right now is an understatment!

The Check Engine Light in the ON position is a self test of the bulb (required for OBD-II). Doubtful there are any codes really. That fuel pump should work with the key ON. That's the biggest clue. Sorry I can't help more than that. Good luck.

I've been curious about this one, any resolution yet?

TB

non yet!

I'm going to have to have it towed to a shop and have it looked at. It will be a while though as I have spent all my money on parts etc for the car and wasn't expecting this to happen so I have to save up some money to have it fixed. Oh well. Just my luck

I'll be sure to let everyone know what the out come is/was. Thanks again for everyones help.

Simon.

Well,

If it cranks and starts with the jumper, just put one of those "nifty" ignition/starter buttons on the dash

TB
Who remembers Grandaddy's 1950's GMC truck with the floor mounted starter switch.

Maybe I fried my PCM, anyway to check it?

I honetsly thought of doing that but that doesn't solve my fuel pump not working

I hadn't heard if the pump actually runs for a short bit, then turns off.

Maybe I missed where you tested this.

Was the "roll over" switch disturbed? Maybe it needs reset. I think there is a switch that disables the fuel pump incase of roll over. IIRC, the reset is near the hood release.

Check your owners manual.

TB