Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Branches E. Great Lakes 3.0 Heads vs. 2.5

So i am taking an engine flow class for my major...of which I learned to use a flow bench and what not. For my final project i was going to compare OEM intakes (throttlebody - filter) and do some math, some more math, and figure out how much cold air intakes help, using CIA and calculating intake temps vs. air density. ANYYYWAY....since i have all this lab time scheduled, i was going to see if anyone wanted to have thier heads flowed/ported. I kinda also wanted to do a 2.5 head w/ 3.0 valves...so let me know. Im at ferris, but live in Novi so if anyone has any extra heads or in the middle of 3.0 swap, let me know.

-Tim

I have a set of 2.5's on my dusted engine. They should be fine if you want to play with them.

sweeett...does anyone have an "extra" set of 3.0 valves?
if not, it would be interesting to port the 2.5 and get some numbers anyway.

-Let me know

Tim

Whats your major??? I wish I was taking a major that had to do with cars :P maybe Ill go back to school for that lol.

Automotive engineering technology....not a true eng. degree, im not smart enough for that, or just not committed for it. part of my car classes is engine flow/design...which is basically learning to cam an engine and ratios inside the engine. WE have to do a final project, and thats why i asked for the heads. Though i am set on my intake project...i am scheduled for a lot of lab time on the flow machine, of which im sure i wont use...hence flowin stuff. plus i can get into the machine lab and make the 3.0 valves fit plus give the head a port job. if i use todras' head, he could prolly sell them for mucho money afterwords.

-Tim

P.S. don't go here, it sux. but if you do, rush PIKES

Do this for your first project, go out to radio shack and buy a $10 indoor outdoor digital thermometer, or you you are really spiffy use the temp sensors on a datalogging DMM. While driving compare temperature inside the intake (use one of the breather holes in the accordian) vs the ambient temperature. First on stock then on a "COLD AIR" intake. I believe you will be remarkably surprized by how the cold air kit is anything but.

If you want to take it a step further and know a little about electronics, connect the same dmm to the voltage out on the stock MAF. This will give you a volage proportional to grams of air flowing in.

The biggest surprize is when the numbers from the stock intake beat the numbers from the expensive aftermarket kit. (The temperature kills any reduced restriction) I am sure you learned this in class.

Just a suggestion. Oh and ofcourse this is comparing SVT to aftermarket, the se is too restrictive.

Now to be fair to anyone else reading this I should tell you how to make the aftermarket kit work well. The deal is to always get air from outside the hood and to do it with as little restriction as possible (bigger filter)

Personally I would stick to the cold air intake being worse as professors tend to like to see how the engineers were right in the first place and the aftermarket people are just selling hype. (and packing the hood with dry-ice when they dyno)

The moral: cold air is better, and there is no cold air under the hood.

Good luck on your project

Removed the heads from the dusted engine yesterday. They are waiting. I'm NOT shipping those heavy things.