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I think that my ATX is going out, but when i reset the computer it works perfectly fine and gets better mpg. will it hurt to keep resetting it when it starts to act up again? I pulled codes on it and it said torque slippage. So how does it run fine on reset? (Already did range sensor and TSS) I just want it to last as long as possible. thanks for any input.

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Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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Should i replace the vb and TC? or just the VB and see if that fixes the problem? and then move on, or both?

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Originally posted by bails:
Should i replace the vb and TC? or just the VB and see if that fixes the problem? and then move on, or both?




I would do both, just as Mercman did. Reason is because the harsh shifting that you are experiencing could easily cause damage to your TC.


Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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what book should i use for the ATX, haynes sux, doesn't tell you anything, will chiltons? I really think that i am going to do it myself. but this will be my first Auto. Done MTX before. I need a good book to tell me whats what.

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Give "todras" a PM. He sells Ford Service manuals on CD. You can get one for your year model and it will cover all models released that year, not just the Contour. There are step by step instructions with pics and it shows you a list of all special tools that might be needed, with pictures. You really should not need any special tools though. I think the CD is somewhere between $5 - $8. It simply cannot be beat.


Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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The other reason to do both is the TC clutch disks get damaged from the slipping caused by the low TC pressure caused by the bad VB. Nice sentence there. What I am saying is that once the control valve in the VB starts to fail, the resulting lower TC apply pressure causes the TC clutch disk to slip and overheat. Once this happens the TC is gone.

I fixed my VB first, and although I had restored the TC apply pressure, the TC still slipped.

jeff



have you fixed your ford lately?
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where would i get a valve body at, i was looking on the web and couldn't find anything. is that what it is called? Also how can i be sure that the gears in the car are still ok? once i get the valve body how can you tell that it is the new one instead of the ford spec.?

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Bails,

Under post ##433725 by Igy on Re: Code 1744 TC Slip fixed,
Igy ordered a valve body from ATC Distribution Group(www.atcdg.com) for ~ US$275. You ask a good question about how to tell if it's rebuilt with the good stuff or just back to OEM parts. I'll let the others fill us in on what to look for...
By the way, I've been driving my car around like you have for the past 2 - 3 weeks (resetting the computer ~ every 5 - 7 miles of stop and go). It still pulls and shifts timely but bang shifts after a while. I hope I can get the TC & VB replaced before a catastrophe!


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At www.atcdg.com you can get a toll-free phone number for your region of the country & order your VB. I ordered a rebuilt unit today from the Dallas, Texas location but they didn't have one available in Dallas. However, they had one in stock in San Antonio and one in Austin so they'll deliver it from one of those two locations. It should be here in ~ 2 - 3 days so I should be able to learn something this weekend. It was $277 plus shipping.
I also stopped by AutoZone to order the TC. It was $139 just as Mercman said plus $45 core.
I just hope I'm not getting to it too late...

Many thanks to Unisys12, Mercman, & Igy for entertaining my questions!


Poncho Villa 1998 Mystique LS

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