Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Removing Duratec V6

Need some help here. Thanks to the wonderful idea of a plactic impeller water pump I need a new motor since mine super heated and boiled the oil. I've got anti-freeze (white smoke)coming out of the exhaust. So I at least have a blown head gasket. It happened before I ever saw the temperature gage move up. Just didn't see it happen. Couldn't believe ford used a plastic impeller on such a critical part without some bells or whistles going off to alert the driver. They at least could have put it in the owners manual to replace at 60,000 miles like they do with a timing belt on other models. I drive 70 miles one way to work so I don't look at my gages but every 15 to 20 mins. I set the cruise and go. Needless to say I ain't very happy with ford right now when I changed the water pump and found the pump had disintegrated in housing. My question is this can the duratec be pulled from the top side or do you have to drop the motor through the bottom?

Unhappy ford owner
Dave

Dave, you can change the head gaskets in the car. If you've done more damage, you can pull the engine through the top. However as long as you're at it, if you're interested in upgrading at the same time I'd suggest putting a 3 liter motor in unless you want to stick with the stock engine. Check out the 3L forum if you have any questions or see my web page at www.buckshotmotorsports.com

Thanks,
Rick

Hey Rick,
I was told by a ex ford Mechanic that if the engine got hot enough to boil the oil that I probably had some permanent damage such as bearing damage. The oil smelled burnt and so did the anti-Freeze but after I changed the stupid *(&^ plastic water pump the car did start and I drove it home with no engine lights coming on. There is a bit of anti-freeze coming out of the exhaust though and exhaust pressure in the coolent system. Hence the white smoke. The ford mechanic also stated that if the motor got that hot the heads were probably warped beyond salvaging. He stated that shaving them sometimes caused problems sealing the intake manifolds since the tolerances are so tight. He also stated that if it was his car he would put another engine in it. I found a stock motor for it for $750. It was his comments that sort of changed my mind about just changing the head gaskets. It was so hot that it melted the plastic on the inside of the oil fill cap. It also got so hot that the plastic on the advance spark sensor on the engine block shifted in the metal socket it was formed in. So am I wrong in taking the guys advice concerning changing the motor out? It's a lot of work to be doing things twice.

Is there anything special I have to do to pull the motor from the top side. Like disconnect the transmission etc.. I have the Haynes manual and they do a walk through on how to drop the motor out but I don't have access to a lift but I have access to a engine hoist. Boy what a pain in the butt!!

Thanks,
Dave

Ah Rick, what do you know about changing engines anyway? Think you're some sort of guru or something?

To pull your engine from the top side, you basically do like any other engine pull (drain fluids, remove mounts, unplug harness at the ECU, etc) with only a few additions...

Pull the driver's and passenger's side hub assemblies from the lower control arm ball joints. Remove the passenger's side axle extension from the carrier bearing end (the hub end can stay connected) by swinging the hub carrier/strut assembly out of the way. Remove the driver's side axle nut, then swing the hub/strut assembly out of the way, releasing the axle. Put a wire clothes hanger around the end of the axle in such a way that it will hold the CV joint together... Do not pull on the CV joint or let it dangle because it WILL separate. Pretty much, that's the only "special" item needed...

Pull the engine/trans as one unit. I tried it engine only and it doesn't work good at all...

Hehe, Brad, if I'm a guru, then you're approaching that of a mythilogical god! LOL Now, if you'd just hurry up with those tapes, we could have us a sale right here.

In any case, if the engine got that hot, the mechanic is most likely right that there is some type of internal damage whether it shows up now or 1000 miles down the road is debatable. But if you commute 70 miles daily, then you need to get busy swapping it out.

Rick

Rick and Brad,
Thanks for the help much appreciated. Looks like I'll be doing it myself in the next couple of weeks.
Dave

A much easier way is to just pull the entire strut assembly still assembled. (brakes, mounts, links, etc)

Takes maybe 30 minutes a side instead of tearing evertyhing apart and losing the preload on the wheel bearings which will likely lead to early failure. (Thanks Tom )


This would also make changing front struts much easier. Whomever said the front struts are hard definitely did not use this technique.